Everest Base Camp: Sleeping atop a Glacier

Everest Base Camp. We arrived yesterday following a short, but strenuous hike from Gorak Shep. We now sit at 5,364 meters. 

It’s been nearly two weeks since I landed in Kathmandu. Twelve days of hiking, each one harder and more beautiful than the next. But this was the goal. At least part 1: Getting to Everest Base Camp. 

I have to admit, it’s a bit surreal being here. Waking up to a view of Mt. Everest is a privilege allowed only to a few. I’m told there were at least three avalanches overnight. I must be a heavier sleeper than I thought. Didn’t hear a thing.

EBC for short, is the starting point of those who wish to summit the mighty Everest. Expedition members will spend nearly eight weeks in between the various base camps that line the mountain, in their quest to stand on top of the world, if only for a few minutes.

For trekkers, EBC is the farthest we’re allowed to go. Getting beyond it requires specialized training and experience to cross the Khumbu icefall, widely considered one of the most dangerous parts of any summit attempt. It is, where most of the deaths occur, not on the way up however, but on the way down. This year, it was the hours long backups above 8,000 meters —the so-called ‘death zone’—that proved fatal. At least 11 people perished in the last few days, prompting lots of messages from home from folks not quite sure whether we would be impacted or not.

There is nothing to worry about here though. Most visitors to EBC will only ever make it to the entrance. They take a photo at a rock showing they made it and turn back. Trekkers are not allowed to spend the night at Everest Base Camp. If we had done that, I’ve got to say I would have been pretty disappointed. Getting into EBC itself was a bit of a production. We’re arriving at the end of the summiting season, meaning everyone is on their way out. The traffic jam of yaks and porters carrying the remains of those Everest dreams, resembled Chicago’s Edens Expressway at rush hour. 

What Everest Base Camp is really like

Once inside, we were not met with the prettiest of pictures. A lot has been said about how crowded and dirty Everest Base Camp is. Our first impression seemed to confirm that. But our guide waved us on. Our camp he said, is much further in. It took over half hour, but when we arrived at our home base for the next couple of days it was as if we’d gone from the sketchy part of town to an upscale neighborhood. 

Our campsite is pretty sweet. The marathon is scheduled to take place every year on May 29, the date of the first successful ascent of Mt. Everest. Organizers not only have obtained permission for runners to overnight here, we get to take over the now vacated campsites from recently departed expedition groups. The tents themselves are comfortable, we have real mattresses to lay our sleeping bags on which is a big plus at night when the temperatures drop well below freezing. 

We have two dining hall tents, a kitchen tent and a medical tent. Our docs are the ones who’ve followed us along the route. The kitchen staff, are the same that’s been here for the last three months. Gotta say, the food has been better than at a couple of our lodges along the way, even though most of us have completely lost our appetites at this point. Then, there are the bathroom tents. We were pretty excited to find toilet paper inside when we first arrived. That’s how low our standards have fallen over the last two weeks.

The real magic though is how peaceful it is in our little corner of EBC now that most have gone. It’s so beautiful. I’m pretty sure neither pictures nor video can do it justice. Today we went down to check out the start line of tomorrow’s race and take pictures. It’s right at the edge of the Khumbu Icefall. I mean, wow. One more sleep. The Everest Marathon is nearly here.