• The Everest Marathon

    Postscript.

    This is what seven days without a shower looks like. It’s also the face of true happiness and contentment. Two weeks ago today I was lining up alongside my fellow adventurers at Everest Base Camp for the start of the Everest Marathon. Little did I know the shape that was to about take. I’ve been asked if I underestimated the race. I’m not sure that I did. I think it’s more that you can’t even begin to fathom what the reality is until you’re actually living it. In much the same way I had no way to understand the profound impact the entire experience has had, and indeed is still…

  • The Everest Marathon

    The Everest Marathon…and then some

    Where to begin? I’ve been on this journey for three weeks now; three truly transformative and enlightening weeks in so many ways.  But even through it all, I’m not sure anything could have prepared me for the actual race.  It’s silly to even call it a race honestly. For some in our group, who have extensive trail running experience, sure. For me, the Everest Marathon was always going to be simply an exercise in physical survival and mental strength. It was both, in spades.  Organizers call it the World’s Highest Marathon. That’s underselling it. The Everest Marathon should be called the world’s toughest marathon. The elevation is part of the…

  • The Everest Marathon

    Everest Base Camp: Sleeping atop a Glacier

    Everest Base Camp. We arrived yesterday following a short, but strenuous hike from Gorak Shep. We now sit at 5,364 meters.  It’s been nearly two weeks since I landed in Kathmandu. Twelve days of hiking, each one harder and more beautiful than the next. But this was the goal. At least part 1: Getting to Everest Base Camp.  I have to admit, it’s a bit surreal being here. Waking up to a view of Mt. Everest is a privilege allowed only to a few. I’m told there were at least three avalanches overnight. I must be a heavier sleeper than I thought. Didn’t hear a thing. EBC for short, is…

  • The Everest Marathon

    The Hardest Day…So Far

    We are now less than three miles (5km) from Everest Base Camp. We even got a peek of it from afar during today’s hike to Gorak Shep. It was definitely the hardest day for all of us. We’ve been trekking for nine days now. We’re tired. The altitude is taking its toll, even on the strongest among our group.  Speaking of which, we had a bit of drama before the start of today’s hike. Actually the drama was last night, after one guy we all call Mr. Austria decided to go on a little unplanned run after our day’s trek. Not only did he not tell anyone where he was…

  • The Everest Marathon

    Up over 16,000 feet

    The altitude has finally caught up with me. I woke up yesterday a bit congested. During our hike it wasn’t much of a problem. But shortly after arriving in Lobuche, elevation 16,100 ft [4,900 meters] I felt like I was about to collapse with fatigue. Every little effort is a struggle now. It is why, even with our hike to Gorak Shep later today, we will spend the next couple of days nearly at the same altitude. Our bodies need to adjust.  But back to that hike to Lobuche. This was definitely a day to take it slow and just take it all in. The views were surreal, surrounded as…

  • The Everest Marathon

    Above the tree line…and into thin air

    It’s early Thursday morning in Dingboche. We arrived yesterday, after one of our longest hikes to date: 6.5 miles [10.5km]  covered in under four hours. Our snails pace dictated this time, not so much by the terrain, which for once, was not as severe, but by the decreasing amount of oxygen available for us to breathe in.  When we took off from Deboche we were at an elevation of just over 12,500 feet [3,800 meters]. When we arrived at our destination we had jumped to over 14,400 feet [4410 meters]. It is why we have to spend two nights in Dingboche. After every 3,300 feet [1,000 meters] climbed an acclimatization…

  • The Everest Marathon

    A Hot Shower

    I took a hot shower yesterday. And it was glorious.The water that came out from the shower head was such that back home I’d be calling a plumber. There was no way to regulate the temperature, and the shower itself was on a different floor from my room. But after five days relying on wipes to clean myself, it was sheer heaven. It’s the little things. When you’re trekking in Nepal things get quite rustic. Most creature comforts go out the window pretty quick. You begin to appreciate things you usually take for granted, like having a real toilet, and heat, not to mention high-speed internet. Though maybe that’s a…

  • The Everest Marathon

    In the Grand Scheme of things

    We are but specks in the universe. Only once before have I been so overwhelmed by the grandiosity of this planet, that I was brought to tears by what lay in front of me. The first time was at Fjdrarglijufur Canyon in Iceland. The second was upon exiting Tengboche Monastery yesterday. Our day began in the village of Khumjung. After a short hike out of town, we came to a junction. This, it was explained was the point where we would officially begin hiking, in reverse, the Everest Marathon course.  After this, we have—taking away two acclimatization days—four more hiking days to get to Everest Base Camp. I’m told today…

  • The Everest Marathon

    A School, a Hospital and a Yeti Scalp.

    I’m sitting in bed, nestled inside my toasty sleeping bag. It’s 5:30am. I’ve been in Nepal for six days now. From the chaos of Kathmandu to the mighty Himalayas. The air you breathe here is so different. Thinner…but also purer. Much like the people. Most of them are Tibetan Buddhists. They’re friendly, welcoming, hospitable to a fault. Even the children will greet you with a ‘Namaste” as you pass. Today, after a short, but strenuous two-hour hike, we arrived in Khumjung, a small village, located at 3790 meters above sea level. We are 25 miles front Mt. Everest now. Along with neighboring Kunde, it is here that Sir Edmund Hillary…

  • The Everest Marathon

    Mt. Everest: What’s in a name?

    Each day here seems to be more breathtaking than the next. This one was no exception. Our acclimatization day in Namche Bazaar took us first, into Sagarmatha National Park, where we got to see Mt. Everest for the first time. Then, as if we weren’t all sufficiently excited and downright giddy, we got to preview the last 5k of the Everest Marathon. I mean, WOW. Let’s start at the beginning. Sagarmatha National Park lies just above Namche Bazaar. It doesn’t take long to get to the main attraction. After all, Sagarmatha is what the Nepalis called Mt. Everest, long before the British decided to name the mountain after Welsh Surveyor…