• Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago: Rest day in Logroño

    My second rest day in a week. I’m glad I took it, but I’m not sure I’d repeat it. When originally planning out my rest days along the Camino, the idea, was not just to rest, per se, but also to be able to explore in some of the bigger towns along the Way. That is why I stopped in Pamplona only three days in. But while I loved Pamplona, Logroño left me underwhelmed. I also think it had to do more with my expectations than anything else. The entry into the city, crossing over the bridge, is to be fair, lovely. And the street art here is fantastic. But…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Day 7: Los Arcos to Logroño

    Distance: 29.1km (18.1 mi) Elevation Gained: 457m (1,498ft) Duration: 8hr Steps: 42,481 Calories: 1,924  Twenty-nine kilometers done and dusted. Eighteen miles. Metric or imperial, it’s still one heck of a distance, and the longest I’ve done thus far along the Camino. I left early today. Around 6:45am. It started getting quite hot a few days ago and this is the only way to beat the heat—at least for the first part of the day. So much for sleeping in. Ah well. This isn’t a walk in the park I guess. It was actually quite nice in the early going. There is something very serene about walking that early. And it…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Day 6: Estella to Los Arcos

    Distance: 22.5km (14mi)  Elevation gained: 422m (1,386ft) Duration: 6hrs Steps: 33,794 Calories: 1,622 A wine fountain with no wine? I demand a refund!! Visiting the Irache wine fountain is supposed to be one of the highlights of the Camino a Santiago. So much for that. Coming a few kilometers after leaving Estella—so still quite early in the morning—the Camino goes past a well known winery called Irache. Back in the day there was a Pilgrim hospital here. The monks would give their patients wine to fortify them. Like seriously, why don’t doctors do that these days? All this jello and tea thing in hospitals when you could be getting wine.…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Day 5: Puente la Reina to Estella

    Distance: 22.4 km (13.92 mi) Elevation gained: 457m (1,500 ft) Duration: 5h 37m Steps: 36,078 Calories: 1,563 I met Alf and Thor today!! Really!!! Lol. They are the cutest Spanish dogs. But no pictures. Because well, I was too busy petting them. I met Alf, along with his human father at the most perfect rest stop you could imagine. Set up by a group of volunteers in the middle of an olive grove, Olive Zen Garden was designed with the intent of creating a space where pilgrims can rest, recharge, exchange ideas, music, etc….and all they ask for is…nothing. Yep. Nothing. Along the Camino a Santiago it is common to…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Day 4: Pamplona to Puente la Reina

    Distance:  24.14 km (15.06 mi) Duration: 6h 27m Elevation Gained: 559 m (1,836 ft) Steps: 38, 282 Calories: 1,726 Today we left Pamplona. I truly enjoyed my time here. Especially the rest part. Such a great city. And omg, the Pintxos. I would have stayed here another day just to eat! After walking on my own the last stage this time I once again have company. I met Linda thanks to a Facebook group called Camigas that consists mostly of women walking the Camino a Santiago alone. Thanks to the forethought of one of the other women in the group who contacted a bunch of us starting around the same time…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Rest Day: Pamplona

    This was my first rest day on the Camino a Santiago. And rest I did. Even though I’m only three days into the Camino, I’m definitely tired, with my body just starting to adapt to the daily distances. I left hotel around 11:30am. I did a bunch of touristy things, including exploring the cathedral, the bull ring and walked along the old city walls, which I absolutely loved. I always really enjoy exploring walled cities. Pamplona is small. The Capital city of Navarra, there are only a couple hundred thousand people and it can easily be seen in a day. And while not technically in Basque country, it is very…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Day 3: Zubiri to Pamplona

    Distance: 23.64km (14.69mi) Elevation Gain: 398m (1,309ft) Duration: 5h 45m Steps: 32,482 Calories: 1,596 Yesterday was such a glorious day. One that I enjoyed fully from the moment I woke up in my lovely casa rural, till I checked in to my hotel in Pamplona, ready for a rest day. I won’t bury the lead here, but shortly after checking in I received the news that my Tía Vicky had just passed away in Mexico City. She was 95 and her passing was not just expected, but one that brought a great sense of relief. The last couple of years have been tough. My Aunt was in a nursing home…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Day 2: Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    Distance: 21.75km (13.5 miles) Ascent – 443m (1,450 ft) Descent – 871m (2,850 ft) Steps: 30,980 Calories burned: 1,602 What a lovely day. After yesterday’s very long, and strenuous day I decided to sleep in and let the folks chasing beds—those without advance reservations—go ahead so I could walk a more quiet path. It was the right choice. Frankly I was a bit afraid I’d be super sore, and also wanted the added recovery time. But there was really nothing to fear. I felt really good today. So that was a definite positive. On my way out I took some added time to walk around Roncesvalles which I did not…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Day 1: Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles

    Distance: 16 miles (25km) Ascent: 1400m (4,600 ft) Descent: 650m (2,130 ft) Steps: 33,479 Calories burned: 1488 Where to begin? I can barely think I’m so tired. Here I am, icing my feet and knees, while trying to get some nourishment in, wondering how I’m supposed to be up tomorrow by 8am in time to drop off my bag for the courier service. Have I mentioned I walked this stage on two hours sleep? Jet lag and nerves are a wonderful thing. Day one on the Camino a Santiago is the hardest of the entire French Way. If you go all the way to Roncesvalles in one day (which many…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Day 0: Arriving in St. Jean Pied de Port

    I’m not going to lie. I’ve been so focused on the fact that I’m sitting on a fully booked flight, that for a minute there I lost sight of the big picture. Until I didn’t.  As we took off from O’Hare, on a non-stop flight to Paris, I opened the window for a moment and then it dawned on me. I’m leaving the U.S for the longest consecutive period of time since I first moved here 22 years ago. Wow.  No matter what happens, the next six weeks are going to be as much an exercise in managing that as in taking care of my feet. As obsessed as I’ve…