• Ecuador: Galapagos & the Amazon

    Ecuador: Five days in the Amazon Jungle

    I learned how to make mosquito repellent out of live termites today. It’s simple. First, find a termite nest. Then scrape a tiny bit off the top, letting thousands of said termites out in a panic to repair the damage. Put your hand over the nest allowing them to crawl over you; rub your hands together; and finally, spread the dead termite juice all over your face and other exposed areas. It even smells good. I swear. No. I did not put this into practice myself. I was too chicken. But I did watch my guide and jungle walk companion Nikola do it. I do question however, what the first…

  • Ecuador: Galapagos & the Amazon

    Journey into the Ecuadorian Amazon

    We went looking for anacondas today. Mercifully we failed. I don’t think I’m ready for that just yet. Just wondering if there is a tarantula hiding in the rafters of my cabin will likely keep me up all night as it is. What a place. It feels surreal to be here, in the Ecuadorian Amazon. And to think that yesterday morning I was on Santa Cruz Island in the Galapagos watching the sunrise in the company of sea lions, marine iguanas and blue-footed boobies.  After a long day of travel to Quito yesterday, followed by an overnight stay, this morning it was back to the airport for a 40 minute…

  • Ecuador: Galapagos & the Amazon

    Galápagos Islands: The Giant Tortoises of Santa Cruz

    Wow. Our last day on Galápagos Islands was one I will never forget. After a jam-packed week, I chose to take the morning off to do some souvenir shopping and just generally have some time to myself. A few thoroughly enjoyable hours later I was back at my hotel meeting up with the group to embark on our last excursion. Talk about saving the best for last. A 45 minute bus ride, and several giant tortoise sightings later—even some just randomly crossing the road— we were on the highlands of Santa Cruz ready to visit Rancho El Manzanillo, a giant tortoise reserve where it’s estimated some 3,300 of these gentle…

  • Ecuador: Galapagos & the Amazon

    Galápagos Islands: Santa Cruz, Part 1

    Goodbye Isabela. Hello Santa Cruz. Today we left the Galapagos’ biggest island en route to its fourth and final inhabited one. But not before Isabela put on one more show for us, begging the question do you really want to leave? After a quick, early morning breakfast our group was driven over to the pier to have our bags inspected and loaded onto the water taxi. We then walked across the street to find eight kayaks lined up alongside the beach.  Kayaking on Isabela Island It’s true what the say about the early bird getting the worm. Or in this case, the fish. Within minutes of paddling we were surrounded…

  • Ecuador: Galapagos & the Amazon

    Sierra Negra Volcano, Isabela Island, Galapagos.

    The National Geographic special continues. Geological edition.  This was a day dominated by a 10 mile (16km) hike to Isabela Island’s Sierra Negra volcano. It probably comes as no surprise to say that the Galapagos archipelago was formed mostly as a result of volcanic activity, but what makes Isabela unique is that unlike every other island here, which only have one volcano each, Isabela has six. Three of them are still active. Sierra Negra last erupted in 2018.  It is the 2005 eruption however that nearly eradicated the giant tortoises from the island, but more specifically from the area around Sierra Negra. And while It’s estimated that some 800 of…

  • Ecuador: Galapagos & the Amazon

    Galápagos Islands: Isabela

    I’m starting to feel like I live in the middle of a National Geographic special. Today began of with a snorkeling excursion to a bay where we were told we’d be able to swim with the marine iguanas that inhabit Isabela island. By the time the snorkel was over, not only had we hung out with the swimming iguanas, but also swum with turtles, a penguin, a sea lion and one of the largest sting rays I’ve ever seen. Never mind the dozens of star fish all over the sea floor.  Ah, but we’re not done says our guide as we get back into the boat. We are now going…

  • Ecuador: Galapagos & the Amazon

    Galápagos Islands: Floreana, a three-hour tour

    I’m so overwhelmed I don’t know where to start. I began my day at what in just 48 hours has to have become one of my favorite spots on Earth: Mann beach in San Cristóbal Island. Sunrise in the company of no one other than two of my groupmates and dozens of sea lions. The adults slumbering. Their boisterous pups splashing around in the water, nagging their mommas for attention. By 7:45am however we were saying goodbye to San Cristóbal, as we embarked on a three-hour tour. Thankfully there was no shipwreck on a deserted island, but within the space of 60 miles we went from being surrounded by sea…

  • Ecuador: Galapagos & the Amazon

    Galápagos Islands: San Cristóbal

    I swam with sea lions today!! And sea turtles!! And saw blue-footed boobies!! It’s the end of day two in Galápagos Islands. It’s 9:30pm and I’m laying in bed as I write this. Completely exhausted, but happy. I also may have found my new favorite place ever in Mann Beach, aka baby sea lion heaven. Galapagos has been on my bucket list since forever. Fifteen years if I really have to pinpoint it. It was when I first got my scuba certification, and learned of the amazing marine wildlife that exists on these remote islands, 600km (370mi) off the coast of Ecuador. The funny part is I’m not going to…