Day 3: Ice cold river crossings and a whole lotta black sand

I’ve never slept in a bunk bed in my life. Tonight that’s going to change. I’m lying on the top of a six mattress bunk. I kid you not. Thankfully two are free so there is room to stretch out. Such luxury. Especially after the two ice-cold river crossings we had to do today.

So what’s the big deal with these river crossings I keep harping on? Well they’re kind of fun. But they also take a heck of a lot more time than they should. Why? Well because you can’t just walk through in your regular footwear or you’d end up hiking in wet boots and socks. Not good. So basically before every river crossing we have to stop, change into water sandals or something similar, cross the river—which between the ice cold water, a rocky bottom and fast-moving current is an experience in itself— and then get ourselves changed into our dry footwear again. We had a bit of a heart in mouth moment today when one of the women in our group dropped her boots into the water. There were some hectic moments as she made a mad scramble to grab them as they floated down the river which of course would have posed “a bit” of a problem. Shocking as it may sound, there is no REI in the middle of nowhere Iceland.

It really is kind of funny that I’m 50 years old and happy to compromise my comfort in a way I never would have in my 20’s. But while the sleeping arrangements are clearly not the best, communal living, at least for a few days has been quite fun. And of course now that the group has been together for a bit dinners are getting rowdier. 

Basically the way each campsite is set out is that there are the actual campgrounds on one side and a grouping of huts on the other. The huts are slightly different from place to place, but they all have dormitory style rooms for about 15 or so people (ear plugs are a must). Each hut has a large kitchen and a dining room where we all prepare our meals, sharing in the cooking and cleaning duties. The bathrooms are in a separate building. There are hot showers, but no electricity and generally no phone signal. You can also buy a $20 bottle of Rioja for $65. Iceland. The land of crazy liquor prices. I guarantee there are no alcoholics in this country. And if there are they are all filthy rich.

But I digress. I guess the whole point of this story is just to bring it back to the why. Why would I choose this for a vacation? One word: Iceland.

While most visitors will never go beyond the Blue Lagoon and the Golden Circle or wherever their cruise ship tours take them, Iceland is without a doubt one of the most spectacular places on Earth. I haven’t been here three times for nothing.

The first time I was here for the half marathon in 2017. We were a large group of girls and we had a blast. We rented a house in Reykjavik for a few days, then after the race rented a car and circled the Ring Road. I was hooked. The overwhelming beauty. The barrenness. The isolation. The sheer lack of people and infrastructure of any kind anywhere but in the two main cities was astounding. It felt at times like being on another planet.

I knew that very first time that despite some super cool adventures including glacier hiking, visiting a lava tube and horseback riding, what I really wanted to do was to get off the Ring Road and hike over one of those Fjords. I wanted to see what was on the other side.

Now I know. And after just casually rocking up to the kind of canyon that would generate guardrails, tour buses and gift shops anywhere else on Earth, I wouldn’t change my experience for the Four Seasons or any Michelin-rated restaurant out there.