Day 5: An easy day….Just please don’t fall off the cliff.

Our guide went MIA today. Well kinda sorta. This morning we were all moving slow. After yesterday evening’s festivities no one was in a rush to get up. Especially since we are spending another night here and didn’t have to go through our usual packing routine. At some point when we finally all got our acts together it became apparent our guide was nowhere to be found. The other group was happily cooking bacon and eggs while we were still trying to sort out coffee.

As it turns out Hákon has some tummy troubles. The really bad kind. When he finally managed to make an appearance this morning all he had the werewithal for was to prepare some oatmeal and accompany us for about the first mile and a half of the trail.

Either way we had all decided the previous night to forgo the really tough trail around here (Fimmvörðuháls) which frankly is said to be utterly epic, and officially part of our itinerary, but also pretty dangerous, going over something called the cat’s spine which apparently has a steep drop offs on both ends. Let’s just say no one here had the stomach for it.

Instead we agreed to do a shorter, but beautiful loop that could or couldn’t include a tough climb in the middle, according to preferences. Hákon, who clearly was in no shape to hike ensured we got past one sketchy bit at the beginning and left us to our own devices on what is a very well marked trail.

It was a lovely day. I chose to forgo the super duper tough climb and instead go on the much more chill 6-mile loop. Most of it was along a narrow path hugging a cliff which meant you had to pay attention to what you were doing, but it was generally packed earth, and with the exception of a couple of spots where some scrambling was needed, it was all good.

The terrain was also a lot more like being in the Alps, with all the vegetation and the views of not one, but two glaciers accompanying us for much of the way. We lollygagged in spots, took lots of photos and were back in about four and a half hours. It was pretty idyllic.

The short day also means a long afternoon spent at camp, but this is our last night together. Tomorrow it’s back to reality. We’re grilling lamb and I’m in charge of the mashed potatoes. Wish me luck!