• Iceland: The Laugavegur Trail

    Day 6: Back to Reykjavik

    All good things must come to end. Lest we forget to appreciate them. Our last morning in Thórsmörk began—finally—with a leisurely morning coffee and the bacon and eggs we were all craving from the day before. We had to check out of our room by 10am though so we all made sure to have our things packed and outside the huts before breakfast. Once done it was time for one last short hike. More of a walk really. But what a walk. Up a steep hill it was for one last magnificent view of the surrounding area, a quick jaunt to a super cool spot called the singing cave, and,…

  • Iceland: The Laugavegur Trail

    Day 4: One trail ends…another begins

    I’m Writing this a day late. Mostly beause I was having too much fun yesterday. Which is a good thing.  The Laugavegur Trail is officially complete. The next two days will be for day hikes in the area of Thorsmork where we are now.  We hiked about ten miles in mostly rolling terrain. While there was, like yesterday, some walking through black sand plains, we also walked through our first Icelandic forest. Yes! There are forests in Iceland. Though definitely not what we think of.  You see, while hundreds of years ago Iceland was about 40% tree covered most of those trees have disappeared. There is, very little vegetation here.…

  • Iceland: The Laugavegur Trail

    Day 3: Ice cold river crossings and a whole lotta black sand

    I’ve never slept in a bunk bed in my life. Tonight that’s going to change. I’m lying on the top of a six mattress bunk. I kid you not. Thankfully two are free so there is room to stretch out. Such luxury. Especially after the two ice-cold river crossings we had to do today. So what’s the big deal with these river crossings I keep harping on? Well they’re kind of fun. But they also take a heck of a lot more time than they should. Why? Well because you can’t just walk through in your regular footwear or you’d end up hiking in wet boots and socks. Not good. So…

  • Iceland: The Laugavegur Trail

    Day 2: The Land of Fire and Ice

    I’m writing this a day late, as I lie inside my sleeping bag—my roommates beginning to stir inside our little mountain hut. There are clothes hanging everywhere, including from an improvised clothes line devised last night in an effort to get our soaked clothes to dry. Our first official day on the Laugavegur trail was nothing short of epic. At fifteen miles long it is billed as the longest and hardest day of the trek, including well over 3,000 feet of elevation gain.  The first half was stunning, breathtaking, otherworldly, all those adjectives commonly ascribed to Iceland, a country who’s landscape changes in the blink of an eye. As does…

  • Iceland: The Laugavegur Trail

    Day 1: Hiking the Laugavegur Trail and then some…

    I’m sitting at a picnic table with my toothbrush sitting next to me, looking at one of the most stunning views Mother Nature could have devised. Located at the very start of the 55-kilometer Laugavegur trail in Iceland, the huts we are staying at are quite basic. There is no electricity. Just solar power. Bathrooms and showers are in a separate building. Our rooms are mixed dorms for about 16 people. To say we are quite cozy is an understatement. But I’ve always said, if there is something I really really want to do, I will do what needs to be done to go there. I’ve not always been that…

  • Ecuador: Galapagos & the Amazon

    Sierra Negra Volcano, Isabela Island, Galapagos.

    The National Geographic special continues. Geological edition.  This was a day dominated by a 10 mile (16km) hike to Isabela Island’s Sierra Negra volcano. It probably comes as no surprise to say that the Galapagos archipelago was formed mostly as a result of volcanic activity, but what makes Isabela unique is that unlike every other island here, which only have one volcano each, Isabela has six. Three of them are still active. Sierra Negra last erupted in 2018.  It is the 2005 eruption however that nearly eradicated the giant tortoises from the island, but more specifically from the area around Sierra Negra. And while It’s estimated that some 800 of…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Day 32: O’Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela

    Distance: 12.24 mi Elevation gain: 1,139ft Duration: 4h 40m Steps: 35,316 Calories: 1,297 It’s been 48 hours since I arrived in Santiago. I’m now sitting on flight number 3 of 3 to get me home: Munich to Chicago.  It’s been a whirlwind. A visit to the Pilgrim’s office to get my Compostela, post-Camino celebrations with friends, not one but two different tours of the Cathedral, a spa day, and a Pilgrim mass I had no plans to go to, but ended up at after my cousin Gaby flew into Santiago from Madrid to spend a day with me. And of course, one last day in Madrid, which meant two things:…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Day 31: Arzua to O’Pedrouzo

    Distance: 21.6k (13.4 mi) Elevation gain: 337m (1,104ft) Duration: 4h 7m Steps: 30,824 Calories: 1,183 I’m now sitting 19K from Santiago. My Camino story is starting to come full circle. It’s mind-boggling to think about. How did this even happen? It was five weeks ago I was boarding a train in Bayonne, France heading to St. Jean Pied-de-Port for the start of my journey. That was day zero. And on that day I met Linda, a woman from England who I connected with thanks to a Camino Facebook group. I last saw Linda in Logroño four weeks ago over Pinxtos. Until today, when having finished her own journey, not just…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Day 30: Sambreixo to Arzua

    Distance: 23k (14.17mi)  Elevation Gain: 460m (1,510ft) Duration: 5h 39m Steps: 31,612 Calories: 1,544 Country cottages are the best. But so are perfectly curated boutique hotels with monkeys on the wallpaper. Such is the nature of accomodations on the Camino. Over the last five weeks I’ve had a little bit of everything. Five star Paradores, converted monasteries, simple B&B’s with no more than a handful of rooms.  I’m going to let you in on a little secret. As much as I love the luxury and creature comforts of the five stars, it is those small, family-run inns that have stolen my heart. The place I left today is one of…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Day 29: Portomarín to Palas de Rei

    Distance: 25.4K (15.84mi) Elevation gain: 585m (1,919ft)  Duration: 6h 18m Steps: 30,742 Calories: 1,770 Can you imagine standing in the middle of ruins that date back to 400BC…With only one other person for company? That was, but a part of yet another extraordinary day on the Camino a Santiago, that included getting a Templar stamp from a blind man and a day out for vintage car owners. On my 29th day. I sit here,  writing in the backyard of Casa Blanco, my country home for the night. I have a glass of red for company, and there are cows from a nearby shed mooing in the background. It is quite idyllic.…