Camino a Santiago Day 25: Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

Distance: 24k (15mi)

Elevation gain: 297m (973ft)

Duration: 5h 36m

Steps: 38,469

Calories: 1,511

Well today sucked. It’s like my brain, body or both just couldn’t get into it. I was so discombobulated. From the minute I left the apartment in Ponferrada and had no idea where the silly yellow arrows were to get out of town. And I know exactly what it is. Every day for the last four weeks I’ve felt fresh in the mornings. No matter how tired I am at the end of my days, I recover well overnight. Which in itself is amazing. What happened today was post-rest day syndrome in its purest form.

Yes, I’ve had four previous “rest days” without issue. But the quotes are there for a reason. In Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos and Leon, I was always running around sightseeing, so my body kept ticking over. In Ponferrada yesterday I literally did nothing other than go out for lunch and a manicure. Yes, a manicure. So sue me. I’m not a real pilgrim, yadda, yadda, yadda. Anyway, I think I relaxed too much, and today I just couldn’t get it together. It didn’t help that nearly the entire day was on asphalt.

Mind you the scenery was beautiful, especially after the first six miles when we entered wine country once again. Walking through those mountain-framed vineyards was magical. I just wish I’d had the wherewithal to enjoy it more.

By the time I arrived in Villafranca del Bierzo all thoughts of sightseeing in what is clearly a beautiful town were gone. I checked into my hotel, took a warm bath to relax, stretch and went in search of food. With most kitchens closed at this time of day I had to settle on a crappy place on the main square where I had what is, without a doubt, the absolute worst meal of the Camino. But in this case it didn’t matter much.

On my way to the restaurant I got a text from Bill and Eloise, my two Camino friends from New Mexico. I didn’t really think I’d see them again, since they had gone ahead of me a couple of days ago. As it turns out, they took a rest day here. I met Bill and Eloise my very first day in France, right outside the pilgrim office. I’m pretty sure they introduced themselves. Eloise has been having IT band-related knee issues since basically day two. By the end of the first week she was unsure she’d be able to continue and has had to cab it forward a couple of times.

It was at that point I gave her a knee strap I brought with me but didn’t need. Today, they both insisted on buying me lunch. When I told them I hadn’t done much other than lend her a strap they said one of the nicest things anyone has ever said to me: “I don’t think you realize how many people you’ve helped on the Camino.”

They went on to tell me how more than once they’ve heard others bring up my name saying “Michelle suggested we do this” or “Michelle helped us with that.” Honestly I didn’t know what to say. I’ve never considered that any advice I’ve given was really a big deal. But what they said really touched me. And it turned what had been a crappy day on the Camino into a good one.

Onwards. Less than a week to go.

Accommodation: Parador Villafranca del Bierzo. This to me was absolutely not worth it. I’m not really sure why it’s a Parador at all. In my mind, they’re all supposed to be historic buildings that have been converted into hotels to preserve them. This is just a plain Jane business hotel. Don’t get me wrong. It’s comfortable. It just has zero personality and it’s outside of town. If I were to do this again I would find a little B&B right in the center. Double room €71.

Lunch: Restaurante Casino. Just don’t go. Food, service, it’s all awful.