Camino a Santiago Day 26: Villafranca del Bierzo to O’Cebreiro

Distance: 30k (18.5mi)

Elevation gain: 842m (2,763ft)

Duration: 7h 17m

Steps: 41,584

Calories: 2,175

I love O’Cebreiro. There is literally nothing to do here. But the tiny mountain-top village, with its stone buildings and clear Celtic influence is right out of a fairytale. The town’s biggest draw is a IX century church, inside which there is grail credited with turning wine into blood. Back in the day, Santa María La Real used to ring its bells at night to guide pilgrims through the mist as they made their way up the long, hard climb.

O’Cebreiro is the first village along the Way in the autonomous region of Galicia: rainy, lush, stunning Galicia. Today’s stage took me from the Renaissance to the Middle Ages as I left Villafranca del Bierzo behind, having not even scratched the surface of what is, by all accounts a beautiful town. It’s just a shame my day yesterday left me so discombobulated as to simply not care enough to really look around. But, as in life, not every day on the Camino a Santiago can be a good one.

Today however was another story altogether. It was, to be sure, quite a long day. And like yesterday most of it was on pavement and a lot of it, alongside a road. The scenery was so different though, the mountains hugging us the entire time. And once the climb started four miles from the finish, WOW. Simply wow.

We gained more than 600 meters (1800 feet) in the blink of an eye. But how can you suffer when walking through magical forests, and stunning mountain passes? You can’t.

On a more sobering note, that same climb had not one, but two memorials to pilgrims who have died along the Way. My Camino friend Eloise was telling me the other day at least two people have died on the trail since we got here. Both heart attacks. It is to be expected of course. So many people walk every year, and let’s face it, most are not athletes, many are older. But it still makes you appreciate being here even more.

So today I walk for MJ O’Connor (8/8/18) and Ricardo Bachini Jouglard (5/12/21) and all the others who never made it home.*

*It was only a few days later I found out that someone passed away on that same climb the day before I went up. that made it three over the course of my time in Spain.

Accommodation: Casa Antón. I could stay in this room for a week. I can’t begin to describe how perfect it is. Every last detail has been thought out and executed to perfection. It’s tiny and if you’re over 5’10 you’re probably in trouble, but it’s just picture perfect and cozy beyond measure. FYI. O’Cebreiro is very hard to stay in. It’s tiny, so not many options. Whether here or elsewhere, if you want to stay in this picture perfect mountain town, you will need to book ahead. Double room. €75

Dinner: Casa Carolo. Being my first night in Galicia I was determined to try the traditional boiled octopus with potatoes. It was good, but I wasn’t blown away. Mostly because I prefer grilled. I also had the traditional tarta de Santiago. It was just OK. I definitely had better of both later on in the Camino. The place itself was a bit too dark for my taste, and did not motivate me to want to linger over my meal. €20