Camino a Santiago Day 19: Calzadilla de los Hermanillos to Mansilla de las Mulas

Distance: 24.8km (15.4 mi)

Elevation gain: 69m (225ft)

Duration: 5h 23m

Steps: 37,246

Calories: 1,509

I almost got mauled by four sheep dogs today. I’m not joking. I could see the Camino flashing before my eyes as I stood as still as I possibly could while the dogs barked viciously at me just feet from my face.

I get it, they were doing their job. I happened to walk up just as the herd was crossing the road. But I’ve never been so afraid of a dog in my life. It didn’t help that the sheep herder took his sweet time to come over and call them off. Felt like minutes. Thankfully all was well, but the encounter certainly added some excitement to an otherwise completely desolate and introspective day.

Leaving Calzadilla de los Hermanillos this morning I chose to stay for breakfast. Having taken the Via Trajana rather than the traditional Camino Frances over the last couple of days meant that for today I would only have one town between my start village and my destination and that would be after 11 miles. A fully belly was required. And this place actually offered eggs and chorizo for breakfast!! Trust me when I say this is a luxury in Spain where they seem to think coffee and toast is enough fuel for the Camino.

With a happy belly and a full bladder of water in my backpack I set off. The highlight of today: walking along the Via Trajana or Calzada Romana, a 2000 year old East-West road commission by Emperor Augustus to transport gold from the mines in Galicia to Rome. The irony didn’t escape me seeing where most of the gold inside Spanish churches comes from.

Other than that there was little to keep my eyes occupied. It was the first day on the Camino that I’ve gone really inward. Seeing as I was the only person there I held a continuous out loud conversation with myself, mostly on what my purpose is here, and if, ten years on from my first Ironman journey, I’m truly challenging myself in any way, physically or mentally, or if that is the point at all.

Conclusion: No. It’s not the point. I’ve always known that as long as my body continues to behave itself there is no real physical challenge. And having gone to some truly dark places during Ironman number #2 both in training and on race day, I was quite sure the mental aspect would be a piece of cake. So why am I here? Anyone who knows me knows I’m all about living life outside the box. But what constitutes outside the box is different for every person and evolves as that person evolves. Walking 500 miles through Spain in a 100% thought out itinerary, staying at lovely guesthouses (even without aircon) and eating whatever I feel like that day without having to look at price is not exactly out of my comfort zone is it? But again, was that the point? No. Not really.

I think for me this was always about embarking on a grand adventure that was entirely of my own design, where I got to do whatever I wanted, whenever I wanted. As much as I’ve done, and it’s been plenty, there has always been someone there. A best friend to make sure the 7-hour bike rides got done every week, and to keep me from figuratively jumping off a cliff every time my mind got the better of me in training. A group of people to travel with to the ends of the Earth to run marathons through lion country and the Himalayas. Or cycle up the Alps or the Pyrenees. Not to mention an entire group of folks dedicated to keeping me safe.

Other than traveling to Cozumel to scuba dive, which let’s face it, doesn’t count, I’ve never legitimately traveled on my own. Maybe, just maybe, this is what this entire grand adventure is all about. However this all turns out by the time I get to, if I get to, Santiago, this is ALL on me.

Accommodation: Alberguería del Camino This has to have been one of my favorite rooms so far. The guesthouse has so much character and is full of lots of thought out details. No aircon, but had a ceiling fan and was totally fine. €41/night.

Lunch: La Curiosa. This was also one of my favorite meals. The decor was impeccable. The prices out of this world relative to the quality of the food. Mind you, once we were done Sarah and I realized that the next room had aircon and ours didn’t! LOL. Menu del día €15