Ecuador: Five days in the Amazon Jungle

I learned how to make mosquito repellent out of live termites today. It’s simple. First, find a termite nest. Then scrape a tiny bit off the top, letting thousands of said termites out in a panic to repair the damage. Put your hand over the nest allowing them to crawl over you; rub your hands together; and finally, spread the dead termite juice all over your face and other exposed areas. It even smells good. I swear.

No. I did not put this into practice myself. I was too chicken. But I did watch my guide and jungle walk companion Nikola do it. I do question however, what the first person who ever did this was thinking.

The jungle reveals itself to you at its own pace, not yours. I’ve been here, at Sacha Lodge, for four days already and it was finally on this, my final day, I came to that realization. You need to relax into it. Slow down. Stop looking for the “big stuff,” and rather, begin noticing the details, from the leaf-cutter ants (they’re fascinating to watch!) on up. That is when the amazing eco-system before you becomes clear.

Survival of the fittest

The Ecuadorian Amazon is imposing, intimidating, scary even. With so many species of birds, mammals, fish, plants and insects competing with each other for food, for light, for survival, each species has come up with its own defense mechanisms to protect from those who would prey on it.

While the rainforest is overwhelmingly green, with very little deviation, hues of red can often be found near ground level. A tree’s red roots warn animals of its toxicity. So do the red mushrooms growing around them. Or the tiny poison frogs with their hues of yellow and blue. In the Amazon, bright colors are often a warning: stay away or I will hurt you.

Bright colors are also used to attract a mate. Males especially use this technique. The brighter their colors the more attractive they are to a potential mate. Here, the brightest birds are usually found high above the tree tops. It is the sun that allows them to become so colorful. Lower down, birds often lack much color. Like owls and stinky turkeys. Yes, stinky turkeys. They’re not really turkeys. But they look like one. And they apparently have awful breath.

Flowers are also brighter the higher up they are. The jungle is so dense, with millions of trees and plants crowding each other out, the race to the top, where the sun is, is a real one.

It’s the little things

Maybe the most important thing to understand while visiting the Amazon is that this is not a zoo. Or Galapagos. Or an African safari, where the animals are all around you, begging to be seen, to be ogled at, to be photographed.

The overwhelming bio-diversity of the Amazon means that yes, while the conditions exist to sustain thousands upon thousands of species, the competition for survival is so fierce, that often times there are only a handful, or even fewer of any particular one.

Jaguars do in fact inhabit the Amazon. But they are highly territorial. With each adult claiming a territory of 37 to 53 square miles depending on gender. In the 5,000 acre property that Sacha Lodge occupies, only one has been spotted.

Anacondas are similar. There are only two that the guides here know about. I got to see one of them yesterday. From the safety of my canoe. G-d help me, they’re huge. There is a single family of four river otters. Maybe a dozen caimans.

One exception are birds. Especially species like parrots. The clay lick we visited yesterday was truly one of the trip’s highlights.

A clay lick is quite literally a wall parrots go to every morning to lick the mineral rich clay. They do this, because the specific plants they feast on are highly acidic and the clay counteracts the effects. Think of it as Tums for parrots and parakeets. This particular one attracts hundreds.

The other exception are monkeys. Like us, they are highly social beings and travel in large troupes. We’ve encountered three different species of monkeys so far: red howlers, spiders, and capuchins. Two days ago, as we stood atop an observation tower built above the canopy we were able to hear exactly why howlers get their monicker. Even at a distance, a fight between two males was so loud, it carried over to where we stood, listening in awe.

That usually is how you observe monkeys in the jungle, from a distance. Sacha does not interact with the animals in any way. They do not see humans as a source of food and hence, they do what they do, when they want to, where they want to. Usually, a pair of binoculars is the only way to get a good look at them as they swing between the treetops.

Today, Mother luck was on our side. After three days of faraway sightings, our jungle walk led us straight into an active troupe of capuchins. They were, quite literally, all around us, swinging back and forth as they fed upon the fruit trees. As long as we were quiet, they could not have cared less that we were there. It was, magical.

It was then I decided this would be my last jungle walk and canoe ride combo of the trip. Though an afternoon excursion was being offered, I realized I would not have a more perfect outing that this one. Finishing this amazing two week adventure on a high, with an afternoon spent writing, accompanied by a glass of wine and a stunning view of the jungle from my poolside terrace is exactly what the doctor ordered.

Tomorrow it’s back to reality.