Camino del Norte Day 7: Bilbao to Castro Urdiales via Portugalete

Goodbye Basque Country, Hello Cantabria. Just another day on the Camino del Norte

So far Cantabria is beautiful but holy highway walking Batman. I knew it was coming, but still not the greatest to have to do.

The first three-quarters of my day was amazing though. Today was cheat day number two. Meaning that while I started in Bilbao, I did not walk all the way. If I had I would still be on the road. 

I began my day by walking from my lovely apartment to the closest subway station. Twenty minutes later I reached the outskirts of Bilbao having gone through some pretty ugly industrial areas. Not sorry to have missed those. 

The Vizcaya Bridge: Adding a new form of transport on the Camino del Norte

The highlight of my morning was soon to come. Most pilgrims on the Camino del Norte who train it out of the city get off at Portugalete. Instead I got off on the opposite side of the river in Las Arenas. You see, connecting both sides of the river is the world’s oldest transporter bridge, and I wanted to hitch a ride.

The Vizcaya Bridge was designed by one of Gustav Eiffel’s disciples back in the day. At the time both ends of the river right at the mouth of the sea were pretty posh. But going back and forth for residents was difficult because of all the boat traffic. The bridge was commissioned and it’s been in operation since 1893. Because of it’s history it’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The gondola transports people and vehicles. You can also walk across, but only after 10am. So the gondola it was. It took a minute but I loved it and it was worth the extra effort. 

Following the bike path back to the coastline

Subway and Gondola ride over it was time to truly get this show on the road. The way out of Portugalete involves several miles of walking along a major highway and still more yucky industrial areas. And yet, you would have never known. A fully separate bidegorri or bike path has been constructed to connect Portugalete with a beach community some 6 miles (10k) away. I loved it. Yes. It’s all pavement, but you know, it’s amazing how much more you can enjoy your surroundings when you’re not destroying your legs up steep inclines and declines. And that really was the theme for today. It was super long, clocking in at nearly 19 miles (30km). But it was the “easiest” terrain-wise. 

Once at the beach I expected some inclines, but nothing awful and omg the views. Before I knew it I was out of Basque Country and into Cantabria. Unfortunately unlike the Camino Frances where there was always a “border” marker between provinces here there was none. So while I kind of know where the switch happened, there’s no photographic proof. Oh well.

It was the last five miles (8km) where things got rough. There is a detour which most people take these days because it’s along the coast and also like 4 miles (6.5km) shorter. Except it involves a lot walking along the side of the road. Most of the road isn’t that busy, but the first three quarters of a mile is a bit scary. Fortunately several of us pilgrims found each other right as we were about to take the split so we decided it would be safer to walk together through the first part. I’m happy to report we all made it just fine. 

Castro Urdiales: Letting go of expectations

Once at my destination I’m not going to lie I was totally taken aback. For some reason I imagined a small town. I guess I have the Camino Frances to blame for that. I keep imagining small villages with a few hundred residents where I can easily get my bearings on arrival. But that’s not the Camino del Norte. Time after time the finishing towns aren’t towns at all, they’re cities. Castro Urdiales as it turns out has around 32,000 people. It’s a lively beach town and it’s gorgeous.

Initially I didn’t expect to get here before the infamous 3:30pm kitchen closing time. Once I realized that was a possibility I started speed walking. And so yes, I made it to a random restaurant at 3:30pm on the dot and was served a perfectly serviceable meal. But it was then I realized this whole daily process is getting too stressful. Upon arriving in Castro what I should have done is taken my time walking down the gorgeous beach promenade and taken it all in. But I didn’t. It was rush, rush, rush to find food. I’ve decided things need to change.

This is not the French Way and I need to stop trying to make the Camino del Norte conform to my routines from two years ago. For one the stages are longer and harder and I’m routinely walking at least two hours more a day.  And if I end up eating pintxos for lunch for the next few days (the longest ones) it is what it is. Basically I need to take a chill pill and let go.

Being the control freak and logistics queen that I am it’s easier said that done. But I am going to try. First lesson of the Camino del Norte learned. 

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Today’s Stats

Distance: 18.6 miles (30K)

Elevation Gain: 1,626 ft (496m)

Duration: 7:34hrs

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Food and Accommodation

Bed & Breakfast: Hostería Villa De Castro. This is a very cute pension, especially the common areas. I booked the cheapest single and it was a bit of a tight squeeze, but the room had a fridge which was great. Like many places on the Camino del Norte breakfast doesn’t start here till 8am so I bought a few provisions at a grocery store instead and ate in my room before hitting the road the next morning.

Lunch: La Darsena. This was one of my most unmemorable meals on the Camino. Though I did try a new Cantabrian dish called pastel de cabracho which is basically a fish pate. Not bad. Brownie points for keeping the kitchen open till 4pm!