Camino del Norte Day 10: Güemes to Santander

Wow. The Camino del Norte sure knows how to pack a big punch into such a short day. I walked alongside incredible cliffs and beaches, took a ferry across the Bay of Santander and ate pig’s tripe. It was scrumptious. But don’t judge me. I thought I’d ordered the scallops! 🙈

I’m now more than halfway through my Camino. Around 154 miles (247K) in. A week ago I wasn’t sure I’d get here to be honest. Such was the difficulty of the first few days. 

After three back-to-back-to-back long walking days it was a relief to only have around nine miles (15K) to walk today.  It allowed for a late, relaxed start at my Casa Rural in Guemes. I’d slept quite poorly so this was also welcome. 

Today, like many others on the Camino del Norte I had two choices on how to get to Santander. The short way along the side of a road (shocker!) and the coastal way, which was only 4K longer. Three guesses on which one I took? 😉

The Coastal Way: Always the best choice on the Camino del Norte

The first 5K or so were to be frank on the road and somewhat monotonous. But boy oh boy, were they worth it! On arrival in the town of Galizano, I followed the signs pointing towards the beach. For a bit I was wondering if they were right. They kept pointing in the direction of these little rural roads. And then it dawned on me. This wasn’t the type of beach I was thinking of. I was being guided to a cliff side pathway that stretched out for miles connecting small coves with each other. It was for the lack of a better or more original word at this point, breathtaking. 

This, along with yesterday is what I imagined when I thought of walking the Camino del Norte. Walking alongside the edge of a cliff, and miles and miles of sandy beaches. Yes, there is a lot of road to contend with, especially once you leave Basque Country and enter Cantabria. But it is worth every step of pavement to have these glorious opportunities in between. 

Another ferry: Getting across the Bay of Santander

Being the Northern Way there was also, once again, the matter of a ferry to contend with. Unlike others, which are short jaunts across a narrow stretch of water, this is a proper crossing. Getting across the Bay of Santander from Somo to Santander is a much more elaborate affair. There are departures every half hour and the ferry takes 20 minutes to complete its journey. Mind you, I’m not sure how they make a living, because they never came by to charge us the €3.60 fare. Not that I’m complaining.

At any rate, by 2:20pm I set foot in Santander. A ten minute walk later I was at the apartment I rented for the two nights I will be here. 

Rest day number three: Here I come

I’ve mentioned before that while on the Camino I prefer to stay in apartments rather than hotels during rest days. It gives me more space, a washing machine and the ability to go food shopping so I’m not eating out all the time.

This place is absolutely perfect. It feels like home. Mostly because it’s a loft and it’s laid out a lot like my own place. Honestly I’m so tired I could easily not leave at all tomorrow and just stay in and read. Of course I won’t do that. But as it is my last rest day. I will have nine continuous walking days after this so I likely will keep tomorrow’s sightseeing activities very light. Plus I desperately need a manicure. Yes. A manicure. So sue me. LOL.

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Today’s Stats

Distance: 9 miles (14.5 K)

Elevation Gain: 782 ft (238m)

Duration: 3:15hrs

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Food and Accommodation

Apartment: Apartamentos Santander 1. I loved this place! The location, layout and decor were great. I totally felt right at home. And it was equipped with everything I needed. Also, the owner was very kind and responsive. Unlike others I had tried to book along the way (I’m looking at you San Sebastián) she had no issue making accommodations for Correos to drop off my bag ahead of my arrival. I stayed two nights and would absolutely stay here again if I were to return to Santander.

Lunch: Bodega del Riojano. This place is amazing. It’s a splurge. But not over the top either. I chose to eat in the bar, rather than the dining room which had a different menu, but OMG. In Spain, always be careful what you order. I chose the callos a la riojana as my main dish believing I was ordering scallops. Turns out it was tripe! Having absolutely no idea I dug in and was in absolute heaven. It was so rich and flavorful. Later, when I googled, you can imagine my reaction.

Lunch: On my second day in Santander, lunch was in two parts. First I stopped for pintxos at an indoor market called Mercado del Este. They were quite good, but nothing like Bilbao. My second stop was at Bar La Tuta which is highly touted for its octopus a la feria. I can now vouch for that. The place is also cute, and the service is good. Best of all it was near my apartment.