Camino a Santiago Day 18: Sahagún to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos

Distance: 15k (9.3mi)

Elevation gain: 109m (359ft)

Duration: 3h 33m

Steps: 19,996

Calories: 955

Wow, just looking at my step count I’m feeling like a total slacker today. The shortest of all my Camino days this was planned purposely for a couple of reasons. The first was to recover from yesterday’s super long day. The second, because there simply was nowhere else to stay along the route I’m currently on.

I left the official Camino Frances today to take an much more isolated, alternate along an ancient Roman route called La Via Trajana. Months ago when first planning this day, my main reason for doing this was because the usually prescribed stop along the Frances looked like a pretty miserable place to stay, with the only available private rooms being in what looked like a dingy motel next to a gas station. Hard pass. When I found this alternate route, both the history of the road and the promise of a quiet friendly guesthouse to basically spend most of the day at and chill seemed just perfect. So that’s what I’m doing, chilling. I also ran into Dave, who I met yesterday on the Camino yesterday, and a lovely Swedish couple who I’ve been chatting with on an off the last several days. So it’s been a win win all around.

And I wasn’t totally useless today. I did do a bit of sightseeing in Sahagún on my way out of town. Yesterday’s crowds from the Saint’s day festival were a bit too much to handle, so I put it off knowing I could afford a late start today. I am, however, a bit bummed to miss the running of the bulls scheduled for this evening, but such is life.

The highlight for me was the Iglesia de San Tirso, whose Mudejar style I really enjoyed. It’s just a shame it was not open to visit. And from what I hear, it’s used as a museum these days, and no longer for services. Also, the ruins of the Monastery of San Facundo and San Primitivo were quite beautiful. Though it seemed a couple of partiers still up from the night before were using the spot to smoke some weed. No respect these days I tell you. LOL.

Accommodation: Albergue Via Trajana. Basic, but perfectly serviceable room. Super friendly and helpful owners. Had a lovely stay. €50

Lunch and Dinner: Albergue Via Trajana. Considering there was literally nowhere else to eat in town unless you were a guest at the only other B&B there (which I hear is fantastic, but I never had any luck contacting the owners), the food was not only good, but also, very cheap. Full breakfast (the next day), lunch and dinner came to €35.