Camino a Santiago Day 9: Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Where the chicken sang after it was roasted.

I kid you not. That’s what Santo Domingo de La Calzada I’m in now is famous for. It’s an awesome story. Legend says that a German pilgrim teenager was passing through with his parents when he was accused of theft by a young girl who’s interest he did not respond to. As was customary at the time he was hanged. Except, that when his parents went to see their son’s body they were surprised to find that he was alive, telling them it was the founder of the town, Santo Domingo who spared his life. They immediately went to see the Mayor to tell him what had happened. The Mayor, incredulous, responded that their son was as dead as the two chickens that lay beheaded and roasted upon his plate. It was then the chickens jumped up and started singing.

Today, all these years later, a hen and a rooster are kept inside the Cathedral as a symbol of the miracle that Santo Domingo performed.

I’m sure you can already tell I love this town. I got here early, around 11:30am. It was a short day from Najera, and after yesterday’s awful slog I once again got up early afraid of being as roasted as the miracle chicken under the Spanish sun. Thankfully that did not materialize and I had a very pleasant, easy day. It’s incredible how after two 18-19 milers (28-30k), going back down to 13mi (21k) seems like a walk in the park.

What’s really nice, is that unlike Chicago, and much more like Mexico City, the heat here is dry. Which means in the early morning hours it’s cool and pleasant and it takes a few hours to get uncomfortable. Starting early truly allowed me to enjoy most of the day and arrive in Santo Domingo early enough to not just settle into my lovely hotel, but enjoy the town and the headless, roasted chicken legend.

Speaking of the hotel. This is the first of four Paradores I have booked along the Way. A Parador is essentially a historic building that’s been repurposed. Some are old palaces, others are monasteries, pilgrim hospitals, convents, etc. It’s almost like staying in a museum. A splurge for sure, but totally worth it. Mine was a pilgrim hospital in the XII century and it sits directly opposite the cathedral. It’s where I’m writing this from now, enjoying a nice glass of Rioja Rosé.

Accommodation: Parador Santo Domingo de La Calzada. I loved this Parador. The rooms were not luxurious, but lovely with lots of historic touches maintained. The view of my room overlooking the Cathedral was fantastic. It’s location alone is enough for me to say I would, unquestionably return. At €100 euros a night it is on the higher end of what hotels go for in this part of Spain, but absolutely worth the splurge.

Lunch: Parador Santo Domingo de La Calzada. Being my first Parador experience I opted to eat here more out of curiosity than anything else. I ate late and the restaurant, while beautiful was empty other than one other table. The food was very good. It’s definitely not cheap, but I’m glad I tried it and it was definitely worthwhile. €46 for a three course meal plus wine.