INCA TRAIL DAY 4: WIÑAY WAYNA TO MACHU PICCHU

I fell in love. Then I was done. 

This last day on the Inca trail started early. The proverbial wake up call at our tents came around 3:30am. We had also agreed to forgo a proper cooked breakfast, so we hurriedly grabbed some basic provisions, and were on our way. It is Machu Picchu day!

It was a hurry up and wait kind of a situation. Unlike the previous couple of nights, the campsite we spend Machu Picchu Eve at is the same one all the other groups do. Which means there are A LOT of people here. The campsite is essentially just steps from the check point that allows trekkers into the national park that constitutes MP. Those gates don’t open till around 6am. But if you want to be amongst the first people to arrive at the Sun Gate you get up early to be at the front of the line. The front of the line is under canopy and has seating so it’s a preferred spot to have if it’s raining.

The Sun Gate: The end of the Inca Trail and the gateway into Machu Picchu

So what is the Sun Gate? Back in the day the Sun Gate or Inti Punko was the official VIP entry point so to speak. It was the customs check arriving parties had to go through before descending into Machu Picchu. Because the Inca Trail was walked mostly by royals and other elite guests, the Sun Gate was a privileged spot from which folks would get their first, awe-inspiring view into the valley below. 

These days, while there are three different routes trekkers can take to Machu Picchu this is the only one that traverses the original Inca Trail. Thus, it is the only one that allows you to enter via the Sun Gate. It is why, despite the high number of people on the trail, it’s still the most popular way to go. 

For us 21st Century pilgrims, once you enter the National Park it is still around an hour or so to the Sun Gate itself. The walk is beautiful, but we were efficient in our traverse. Photo stops were brief and limited. We were on a mission. 

Arriving at the bottom of the Sun Gate I paused for a minute. I wanted to make sure I could capture every moment of the way up and, once there, the view below.

It was, a magical experience. Truly. Because of the time of year sunrise was past us. But…in a huge stroke of luck, the view below was, wide open. We had been warned. Clouds and fog are common here this time of morning. But today, there wasn’t a single one. There it was, Machu Picchu in all its glory. 

We spent a good twenty minutes or so just taking pictures and admiring the view. But we weren’t there yet. The descent into Machu Picchu itself would still take at least another hour. And so off we went. As the ancient citadel got closer and closer, my awe increased. This was it, our goal. The Lost City of the Incas. 

Arriving in Machu Picchu

More than 7,000 feet above sea level in the Andes Mountains,  Machu Picchu is the most visited tourist destination in Peru. Built around 1450AD, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983, and was named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World in 2007.

In the Quechua Indian language, “Machu Picchu” means “Old Peak” or “Old Mountain.” It is made up of more than 150 buildings ranging from baths and houses to temples and sanctuaries. Many different theories exist about Machu Picchu’s purpose—a royal estate and a secret ceremonial center among them.

In any case, before we knew it we were there. At the upper balcony so to speak. The place were you will always see tourists photos taken from. Because we were hiking the Inca trail and were descending into the city, rather than climbing up into it, we were the first ones there. 

It was great. We took our sweet time taking all the touristy pics. From every angle possible. By the time we were done it was starting to get crowded. It was time to finish our descent into the city and begin our tour in earnest. 

From breathtaking to tourist hell

In the beginning it was all good. We stopped at one of the ancient terraces and sat while our guide walked us through the history of Machu Picchu. Half an hour later. We descended into what I can only describe as tourist hell. 

A visit to Machu Picchu is highly regulated these days. The number of visitors has overwhelmed the site to such an extent that the number of people allowed in every day is limited. To be sure, those “limits” are still too high. To make things more manageable the government requires visitors to pick one of four routes that must be followed. No exceptions. Our route required us to briefly exit the park to pick up our tickets before re-entering. It was as we were nearing the main gate to do just that I decided I was completely done with the day. The number of people already there was staggering. Within minutes we went from what was a peaceful, magical three day experience to shock and awe. 

I’m not going to lie. I don’t remember much of the “official” tour itself. All I can tell you is I disliked pretty much every minute of it. I simply can’t imagine being an average tourist at Machu Picchu. If I had gone through all that effort to get to Peru to experience this sacred place and that overcrowded mess had been all I knew….I would have come away incredibly disappointed. 

Thankfully that is not my overall takeaway. My Inca Trail experience is one I will forever cherish. A super fun train ride to Ollantaytambo and bus ride to Cusco back, Debbie and I said our goodbyes to our guides and to the group.

One more adventure of a lifetime successfully checked off.  And there is still more to come before leaving Peru.

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Today’s Stats

Distance: 5.5k (3.38mi)

Starting Elevation: 3,680m (12,073ft)

Ending Elevation: 2,050m (6,728ft)

Elevation gain: 178m (584 ft)

Duration: 1:40hrs