INCA TRAIL DAY 2: AYAPATA TO CHOQUICOCHA

This second day on the Inca Trail began at 4:40am with a knock on my tent door and a cup of coca tea. A hot water basin and soap were left outside as well allowing me to freshen up before breakfast 

The meals here truly are over the top. How in the world our chef manages to whip up such a varied spread for 15 in just about an hour inside a kitchen tent is beyond me.

Day two on the Inca trail is the hardest. At least it is if you sign up with Alpaca Expeditions. For one there are two mountain passes to overcome. Then there are the endless sets of stone stairs. But in exchange for agreeing to suffer continuously for some nine hours you get  a sparsely populated trail. That, and staying at an alternate campsite to most other groups. That is a godsend on a trail often known for its crowds.

And so, after indulging in frittatas, and two types of pancakes, off we went. The crazy early start is specifically designed to get you to the next camp before dark. In that at least we succeeded.

The climb to Dead Woman’s Pass and beyond.

Anyone who knows me knows I love mountains. They also know I can’t climb them to save my life. Well I can. But I’m slow as molasses. Living at sea level in flat as a pancake Chicago isn’t exactly great preparation for crossing the Andes. But hey, I’m nothing if not stubborn as a mule and endlessly optimistic. Both those traits served me well today. 

On paper, a 16K (10mi) day sounds like cake. Until you look at the starting and ending elevation. Not to mention the number of vertical meters being climbed. 

To say I was shot out the back within 60 seconds of starting is probably generous. Today basically went like this: 4-hour steep climb, 2-hour steep descent, 2-hour steeper climb, 2 hour-steeper descent. Oh and it rained for the last two hours—on stone steps. Yeah. Peachy. 

The climb up to Dead Woman’s Pass was the worst however. This is the highest point in our 39km trek at over 4,200m (13,828ft). I was so far behind at this point I didn’t particularly care. I just put one foot in front of the hour and focused on getting to the top. As I neared the peak there was my guide cheering me on. So was the rest of the group, applauding and cheering as I summited. I have to say that is the one thing I truly appreciate about the hiking world I’ve inhabited the last several years. Everyone is always super supportive, even when you’re the very last one day in and day out.

The immensity of the Andes Mountains

And yet, despite the lung-busting pain, you couldn’t help but be mind-boggled at nearly every turn. I’m going to be honest, When I signed up for the Inca Trail, I didn’t really expect to be blown away by the trail itself. It was more about experiencing the road to Machu Picchu in the way the Incas did that attracted me the most. I’m nothing if not a history buff. 

But anyone whose mind isn’t blown by the Andes mountains, and the Inca ruins—set in the most unlikely of places— is blind.

Part of it is that the trail is within the mountain range itself. Then, there is the sheer size of the Andes. Like I did while hiking to Everest Base Camp in Nepal, I feel quite small here.

It really was a shame that the last couple of hours were covered in fog. A common occurrence in this part of the world. Sometimes it blows away quickly. Others like today it lingers. And while also quite beautiful, the fog also robbed us of our last views of the Andes before we left them behind. We have now descended into Peru’s cloud forest. It is through here we will traverse tomorrow, as step by step we get closer to Machu Picchu. 

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Today’s Stats

Distance: 16km (10 mi)

Starting elevation: 3,300 m (10,829ft)

Ending elevation: 3,600m (11,800ft)

Highest elevation: 4,200m (13,700ft)

Duration: 9 hours