In the Grand Scheme of things

We are but specks in the universe. Only once before have I been so overwhelmed by the grandiosity of this planet, that I was brought to tears by what lay in front of me. The first time was at Fjdrarglijufur Canyon in Iceland. The second was upon exiting Tengboche Monastery yesterday.

Our day began in the village of Khumjung. After a short hike out of town, we came to a junction. This, it was explained was the point where we would officially begin hiking, in reverse, the Everest Marathon course. 

After this, we have—taking away two acclimatization days—four more hiking days to get to Everest Base Camp. I’m told today will be much more gradual; the terrain less severe, Either way, if before I was pretty sure my race would be more of a hike, than a run, now I am sure of it. 

The route is steep. During the race, we will be of course, descending for the most part, rather than ascending. But descents under these rocky conditions must be taken even more carefully. One wrong step can end in disaster. 

It is beautiful though. Our route today, as every day, a narrow trail, hugging the mountainside. We had Ama Dablam for company. While not as famous as Mt. Everest, it is still, at over 6,000 meters, one of the world’s highest peaks and a favorite of mountaineers. 

Life on the Everest Base Camp trail

My favorite part of this whole experience though is the insight into a way of life, that hardly seems real in 2019.

There is, for sure, the encroachment of ‘modern life.’ We may be isolated on a mountain, where the only way down is either on foot or via helicopter, but that doesn’t mean I can’t get a can of Coke or a Snickers bar. Snickers is a thing here. Don’t ask me why. It just is. They’re everywhere. The yaks and the porters bring them up on their backs. The same way they bring trekkers bags up. The same way they bring the garbage down. Speaking of which, one of our group, tried this morning to carry the same load our porters do. It was funny to see him struggling, but sobering to think this is how so many people here make a living. While the younger porters seem to easily run up and down the mountainside, some even carrying cel phone conversations in the process, you can see the pain etched in the older ones faces. There has to be a better way. 

Tengboche Monastery

After an extended lunch stop where we both pondered that reality while taking in some truly magnificent views we continued on our way. My stomach is starting to get the better of me. It started a couple of days ago. Nothing crazy. Just enough to be an inconvenience along the trail. After a couple of pit stops, we made it to Tengboche Monastery. For our little group’s purposes, this is the cutoff point on the race. If we do not make it here by 4pm on race day, that is nine hours in, we will be forced to stop for the night and continue on the next day.

Tengboche Monastery is much more than that of course. It’s the center of Tibetan Buddhism in Nepal. As someone who has been attracted to Buddhist philosophy since the first time I visited South East Asia, I had a strong desire to stay and wait for afternoon prayers. We were now only a 15-minute walk from our lodge for the night, so those of us who wanted to were able to stay behind to do just that. 

When we went in, the monastery was shrouded in clouds. There wasn’t even a hint of what lay behind them. The prayers were beautiful. Calming is maybe the better word. When they were over, I walked out. It may have been the state of mind I was in, or simply the magnificence that had, during our stay inside reavealed itself, but in that moment all I could do was cry.  We are but specks in the universe.