Camino del Norte Day 3: Getaria to Deba via the Ruta del Flysch

Today was simply unbelievable. The Ruta del Flysch IS simply unbelievable. And I’m wrecked.

I started my day early, determined to be on the road by 7:30am. I managed that but right off the bat lost my way by missing one of the yellow arrows out of town. It would, as it turned out, be the theme for the day.  

In any case, my little detour wasn’t a biggie. It cost me around 15 minutes or so, and soon I was on the proper way thanks to a couple of locals. 

The Ruta del Flysch

The main course for the day so to speak was to traverse an alternate route to the Camino known as the Ruta del Flysch. Flysch is the name given to a geological formation that takes on the appearance of multiple layers of rock. The best way I saw it described today was that it is like reading the pages of a book containing 60 million years of this planet’s history. 

The Flysch in Basque Country—specifically between the towns of Zumaia and Deba—are particularly stunning to witness. Especially at low tide when the sea floor is visible and you can walk along them while looking up at the exposed cliff faces. Scientists credit the study of these Flysch with determining the exact meteor strike that led to the extinction of the dinosaurs along with countless other species.

Shockingly , there were hardly any pilgrims on the route at all. Mostly day hikers. In a way I shouldn’t be surprised. I learned two years ago that most pilgrims get wrapped up in the daily routine of following the yellow arrows and seashells. They are reluctant to go off the path, even when the alternate leads to the exact same destination. It’s a shame really. To come to this part of the world specifically because of the coastline and then avoid taking the coastal routes seems like a waste. 

On the ropes….

I absolutely loved the day. Until I didn’t. 

It was hot today. And exposed. Barely a cloud in the sky. I was soaked through within the first hour of hiking. The ups and downs were relentless. And while the views kept me enthralled, once over, the path leading to my destination town seemed endless. I started obsessing over the time and those famous Spanish restaurant hours. 

Life has a way at laughing at you when you’re in a rush too, because of course, I got turned around AGAIN. My little error cost me around 20 precious minutes. 

While the official stage ended in Deba my plan was to walk to the B&B I’m staying at a couple of miles further away. Knowing there was yet another steep climb involved I made the decision to scrap it. I would get to Deba and figure out where I could get a cab that would hopefully deliver me in time to eat. But even that wasn’t looking promising. It was 3pm when I rocked up to the taxi stand. Except no one was there and the three numbers listed weren’t answering. 3:10pm. 

…Until once again the Camino provided

The Camino provides. For the second consecutive day a Camino angel crossed my path. I walked up to a man and a woman who were chatting nearby and explained my predicament. I asked if there was another way to get a cab. They said no. This is a small town. If the drivers are busy it would be a long time before one returned.  Seeing the sorry state of me and knowing where I was going, Mikel, offered me a ride. It was only a few minutes away from where he was going. I nearly cried. He got me there at 3:23. Seven minutes before the restaurant’s kitchen closed.

I was a right mess and caked in salt from head to toe from all the sweat, but I was served a fantastic meal with a gorgeous view of the sea. The same view I can see from my window and from the picnic bench I’m writing this from. I’m exhausted and I can barely move but today was a very good day. 

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TODAY’S STATS:

Distance: 14.24 (23.2K)

Elevation gain: 3,031 (924m)

Duration: 7:21hrs

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FOOD AND ACCOMMODATION:

Casa Rural: Pikua Landetxea. This place is fantastic. Yes, it’s 3 miles (5km) past Deba, but it’s totally worth it. The food is amazing and the setting along the water is unbeatable. Cute rooms. No A/C though. In fairness most places along the Norte don’t have aircon and it’s hardly necessary. Also, if you make it here, the climb you add at the end, will be one less for tomorrow’s hike!

Lunch: Pikua Landetxea. The Casa Rural is pretty much in the middle of nowhere so if you stay here you commit to eating both lunch/dinner and breakfast here the next day.