Camino del Norte day 9: Laredo to Güemes

Today was a privilege. 

Day 9 on the Camino del Norte began quite late by pilgrim standards. To get out of Laredo one must take a ferry. It takes two minutes to take you across the river to Santoña, but it doesn’t start running till 9am. 

With an 18 mile (29K) day ahead of me and liberated from any notions of arriving in Güemes in time for lunch, I left my hotel just after 8am, stopped at a local cafe for breakfast and got underway.

One of the most beautiful days on the Camino del Norte

On the Camino del Norte you will often times have a choice between the official path, which will take place along roads, and an alternate coastal path. Which one you take is up to you and your comfort level veering away from the famous arrows and seashells. You would be surprised how many people can’t bear to leave the markers behind. Or will walk on road rather than the beach for a slightly shorter route. In my case, if there is a beach to walk on, that’s the way I’m going. Each and every time.

So for the first eight and a half miles or so (14K) today a large part of my walk took place along beaches. Beautiful, wide, sandy beaches with gorgeous blue water. Unlike yesterday this was a perfect, blue sky day. You couldn’t ask for more. And yet, it just kept getting better. As I got to the end of the second of the three beaches I would walk through, it was time to start climbing. Not a big climb. But I had to get up and over a hill to reach the final beach.

The trail was narrow, rocky, slippery and surrounded in bushes. I wondered at points why I was doing this part alone. Not twenty minutes later I reached the top. As the view opened up my jaw dropped. And this is why I do what I do. I felt such joy, such privilege for having this opportunity. After an extensive picture taking and gawking session I reluctantly started walking down to the other side.

And then, it got better. No. I’m not kidding. At low tide it is possible to view and walk around these unusual rock formations that lie on the beach at the foot of the hill. I just sat and marveled. 

With a long stretch of beach to walk on ahead of me I finally got underway again, walking along the shoreline until it was sadly time to get back on concrete. 

Veering away from the water

With a lovely beach town in sight I decided to find myself a restaurant with a view. I then proceeded to order some calamari and a tinto de verano to hold me over until tonight. Spanish dinner times being what they are I won’t eat again till at least 8pm. 

Break over it was time to embark on the second half of the day. As I turned inland my spectacular sea views disappeared, but the countryside on the Camino del Norte is certainly nothing to sneeze at. And while the last part felt a bit like a slog over pavement on the side of a country road, the rural paradise that is my finishing “town” was worth every step. 

I am writing this sitting on the terrace of my Casa Rural or country home overlooking the  mountains with a glass of rose in hand. Life is good. Tomorrow, it’s back to the sea and to the city. Santander, here I come. 

Postcript…just when you thought the day was over.

OMG. So much for my peaceful evening. I ran into Jose, my walking buddy from yesterday except this time he was reunited with his lost brother, nephew and friend. Several hours and drinks later I’m finally in my room thanking G-d that tomorrow I only have 15K to walk. Those Spaniards are trouble!!! Oh and my vlog is now going to be two days behind. Oops.

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Today’s Stats

Distance: 18 miles (29K)

Elevation Gain: 1,100 ft (335m)

Walking time: 8:07hrs

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Food and Accommodation

B&B: Posada Valle de Güemes. What a gem. Guemes is less of a town and more of a collection of homes spread out in a rural valley. There is a very famous albergue on the outskirts, but for those seeking private rooms the choices are few. This is one of them and dare I say the best, since it’s the only one that includes a restaurant. The rooms are adorable, the views are fantastic and if you are so inclined there is also a pool.

Dinner/Breakfast: Posada Valle de Guemes. It was my intent before running into those Spaniard troublemakers to have dinner at the one other restaurant in town which is supposed to be quite good. Best laid plans and all that. Either way, dinner was good and the company was hilarious.