Camino del Norte Day 6: Gernika to Bilbao

Bilbao, how do I love thee? Also, cue my first cheat day on the Camino del Norte. First to the cheating part. 

Back when I started planning for this trip I knew I wanted to end in Oviedo. There is a significant historical peg that makes me want to finish there and not just on some random town along the Way. I also knew that with the amount of time off I dispose of that would not happen unless I sacrificed rest days OR skipped certain sections of the Camino. I chose the later. 

Long days on the Camino del Norte: different ways of dealing with them.

It is well known that the Camino del Norte includes some very long days, many of them back to back. Some are so long that they are only doable by the youngest and fittest. More often than not pilgrims will break down these days into two parts. Or they do what I’m doing which is to cut the industrial sections in and out of Bilbao, as well as the one out of Santander. I won’t miss out on anything other than walking through some pretty ugly parts of the Camino, and bragging rights that I got every single kilometer in on foot. Y’all. At this point in my life, with everything I’ve done, I have legitimately ZERO left to prove. 

And so today I chose to walk the nearly 15 miles from Gernika to Lezama, then hop on public a bus for the remaining six miles to Bilbao. It was perfect. I walked just enough where I got a full day’s Camino in (this is where many people stop for the day), but not so much as to kill myself with a 20-miler. More than anything, I wanted to get into Bilbao early so I could enjoy the day.

A difficult climb made easier by good company

Walking out of Gernika had its challenges. As I mentioned yesterday I was really taken with the city itself. It’s dark history yes, but also its vibe. Walking out of the city proper was easy, but once past the urban area, a 1,000 ft (300m) climb ensued within a short period of time. 

Adding insult to injury it had rained overnight. The trail was not just steep and rocky, it was steep, rocky and insanely muddy and slippery. I gingerly made my way up, often stopping to catch my breath. Enter today’s Camino Angel.

As I paused to rest on a particularly difficult stretch, a group of four locals walked past. One noticing I was having a bit of a hard time fell back and said to me “You don’t have much to go to the top. Here, I’ll walk with you.” He then proceeded to tell me all about his walking group. They are lifelong friends who include a retired Marine, two doctors and himself, an engineer. They walk in the mountains around Gernika every Saturday and Sunday and argue about anything and everything. His wife opts out because she doesn’t like the climbing and descending. Can’t say I blame her. In any case the time flew by and before I knew it I was at the top of the climb waving goodbye to him and the other three. 

Basque Country: Its people and culture.

People here have been incredibly kind so far. When I arrived in Basque Country a week ago I didn’t know what to expect. Everyone had told me it’s gorgeous but that the locals can be difficult and cold towards outsiders.

For those of you who don’t know the history, just think of it this way. The Basque are to Spain what the Quebecois are to Canada. They are fiercely independent, have their own language and culture and if it were up to a large number of them they would be their own independent nation. I don’t pretend to understand the politics here, they are certainly complex. At any rate, my experience, while that of a tourist, which I understand is different than that of a resident, has been the opposite of expectations.

Without exception every single person I’ve met has been helpful and kind, more than one giving me an insight into what life in the Basque Country is like. In the cities, folks are less likely to speak the language regularly, while in the countryside the locals will speak it almost exclusively. Because of Franco’s decades-long dictatorship and his repression of Basque culture, the age of the person involved also impacts how fluent they are. These days schoolchildren have three choices. They can be educated exclusively in Basque, exclusively in Spanish (or Castellano as they call it here), or in both. 

Bus or train: All roads lead to Bilbao

In any case, today went by quickly, with lots more ups and downs than advertised, but it was all doable. I also ran into Robbie and his son again so we walked together for a bit. Before I knew it I was in Lezama and the bus was pulling up just as I walked up to the stop. Never mind that I thought I was taking a train. Either works and within a half hour I was in Bilbao. 

WHAT A CITY!!! But more on that tomorrow. I have a rest day to look forward to. And since I’ve already done laundry and washed my hair (incredible pilgrim luxuries, I’ll have you know) I intend to fully milk every minute of tomorrow from sleeping in to eating everything in sight to exploring as much as my desperately tired feet will allow. 

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Today’s Stats

Distance: 14.75mi (23.75K)

Elevation Gain: 1,977ft (603m)

Duration: 6:37hrs

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Food and Accommodation

Bilbao City Center by Abba Suites. This was the perfect choice for me on a two night stay. These are basically full service apartments, where you have a kitchen to take a break from the constant eating out, and a washing machine which is crucial every few days. Its located near the river’s north side in a newer neighborhood, but a stone’s throw from the Guggenheim, which was excellent. Price-wise Bilbao was expensive, but I found this to be a much better value than small hotel rooms without the added amenities for the same price elsewhere.

Lunch/Dinner: Such was my love affair with the two pintxos places I stopped in on day one, that I went back for seconds the next day. Both are located in the Old Town in the Plaza Nueva. They are Gure Toki and Sorginzulo. Their pintxos are far from the traditional Spanish affair. They are innovative, blend in several cuisines and are just plain yummy. They are both packed all the time, so getting a table can be challenging. It is at times like these you just need to do as the locals do. Rock up to the bar, squeeze yourself in and eat standing up.