Camino del Norte Day 15: Llanes to Ribadasella

Today would have been Grandma’s birthday. Somehow I think she would appreciate what I’m doing, walking the Camino del Norte. She did like to walk after all. And would, into her late 70’s and early 80’s outwalk my parents on their yearly trips to Europe. 

Also, I took a bus. Grandma would have approved of that too. She wasn’t into doing shit she didn’t want to. And today I didn’t want to walk 30K. 

I had a spectacular start to my day. There is no other way to describe it. A coastal road that was once again, a choice. One that left absolutely NOTHING to be desired. Barely an hour and twenty minutes into my journey I experienced the absolute highlight of this Camino del Norte. In a Camino already full of highlights that is quite the statement. Well, Ok. It might be tied with the Ruta del Flysch.

After spending a good long while contemplating the magnificence that is Mother Nature I continued on knowing this was it. Whatever else came next it would not compare. 

Unplanned ‘cheat day’ on the Camino del Norte

Maybe it was that. Or the front ankle niggle that wouldn’t go away. I may just be tired. But I pretty much knew all along I had no desire to walk 30K today. The weather was gorgeous. I left early to give myself time to do the full stage. But I got to a point around 10 miles in when I knew I would eventually call it a day. It was just a matter of getting the bus schedules working in my favor. Buses only go by every 4 hours or so. 

A short while later I stopped for a quick bite to eat and consider my options. I realized that the bus was still around an hour and twenty away. I continued walking until I got to the next town. At 14.75 miles I pulled the plug and boarded my bus for the remaining four miles of the day. Yay for listening to myself. 

Arriving in Ribadasella, I quickly considered my options. There is a prehistoric cave with cool artwork you can visit here. Unfortunately the tickets have been sold out for months as I found out back in March! I thought about visiting the backup cave, with no artwork, but cool from a geological perspective. The thought of climbing the required 300 steps to get there made up my mind. I checked into my Pension and after a quick shower I went off to lunch.

Exploring Asturian cuisine

Having not made it to a Sidrería in Llanes yesterday I was determined to make it happen today. I’m glad I made the effort, but I’ve got to say, sidra is not for me. Asturian apple cider has a low alcohol content. It’s poured from up high to promote bubbles. You must drink it like a shot, so the server only pours a small quantity at once. You also have to buy the full bottle. At €3.50 I figured if I didn’t like it no big deal. 

I also tried a local dish commonly served at sidrerías called cachopo. It’s essentially a breaded cutlet except it’s also stuffed with cheese and jamon. But even the half portion was huge and I left a large amount on the plate. You know it’s big when even with my huge appetite these days I can’t get through it. 

Ribadasella itself is a pretty little town on the river. I explored a bit after lunch expecting to go back out this evening. At the moment it’s raining though, so I may be staying in. That’s not the end of the world either. With 225 miles (363K) in the legs, and four walking days to go on the Camino del Norte my post-hike energy levels are waning. 

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Today’s Stats

Distance: 15 miles (24k)

Elevation Gain: 1,282 ft (391m)

Walking time: 5:30hrs

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Food and Accommodation

Hotel: Pensión Arbidel. This was such a cute stay. And such a kind owner. The place itself is fabulously located. The Pension is a house where you walk into a shared living area that branches off into the bedrooms. Mine had a private bathroom but some don’t.

Lunch: Sidrería El Tarteru. One of the more famous sidrerías in Ribadasella I went here to try two Cantabria specialties: cider and cachopos. I ordered the cachopo with some sort of mushroom gravy. It was good but way too heavy. As I learned later on, it’s better without.