Camino del Norte Day 11: Santander to Santillana del Mar

Today was cheat day number three on the Camino del Norte. Also, I walked past an energy plant AND visited a replica of a prehistoric cave. Huh?

Leaving my apartment at 8am, I walked to the station and boarded my last train of the Camino del Norte. Looking to bypass the long industrial section, I boarded downtown and got off at the town of Mogro. Why there specifically? This stage was always going to include a train. There is a one stop ride most pilgrims take to get across a river. The only other options are to take a 5 mile (8K) detour or walking directly on the train tracks….which let’s say is discouraged. 

Because this is a suburban train line it only runs once an hour. I figured I’d start my walk directly across said river. This made my actual walk short, around 12 miles (19K). The shorter distance played in perfectly with my plans. Today’s destination is for me, one of the more “important” ones along the Camino del Norte.

Also, I have to say, today was not the nicest. The first and last couple of miles were through very pretty countryside but the rest was downright ugly. All of it was next to a road and it was pretty poorly signposted. 

Having said that, in general, I do encourage walking through the “ugly” bits. I’ve always said the Camino a Santiago is in many ways a reflection of life. And life ain’t always pretty. The thing is, I’ve been there, done that. And this time around I just don’t feel the need.

Santillana del Mar: the town of three lies.

Arriving in Santillana Del Mar shortly after 1pm was great. My hotel, is an old historic mansion dating back to the 1700’s. It is smack dab in the midst of what is a VERY touristy town, dubbed the prettiest in Cantabria. 

It is also known as the town of three lies. Because unlike what its name would imply it’s neither saintly, nor flat, nor along the sea.

The town, as you would expect from a place like this, is packed with tourists and lots of shops selling the usual trinkets. But for me, the main attraction lay around 2km away. 

The Camino del Norte and Las Cuevas de Altamira

The Cantabrian region of Spain is dotted with caves. Many were once inhabited by some of the very first Homo Sapiens to arrive in Europe tens of thousands of years ago. Some of these caves can be visited. Most can’t. 

The most famous of these caves is the Cueva de Altamira. It’s collapsed entrance was discovered by a farmer’s dog in 1879. But it was to be the great great grandfather of one of Spain’s wealthiest families (Owners of Santander Bank) and his 8-year-old daughter who discovered the incredible artwork inside. An entire ceiling covered in prehistoric artwork that has been dated to be between 18,000 and 35,000 years old.  That’s how long people lived in that cave throughout the millennia. 

One door closes, another one opens.

For decades the cave was open to visitors. It became so popular that the body heat generated by the crowds was creating condensation on the ceiling leading to the erosion of the paint. As a result, the government shut down the cave sometime in the 1980’s.

Then around 20 years ago an exact replica of the Cueva de Altamira was built right next to the original. It’s said to be identical down to the curves and the cracks on the ceiling. The same tools were even used to paint it. The tour was outstanding. I purchased my tickets more than three months in advance because so few people are allowed inside. Yes. Even for a replica. These days five people a month are allowed into the original cave. But getting in is no easy feat. Those folks have been on a wait list for over 20 years!

This was, as you can imagine, one of the “big” items I had on my Camino del Norte list and I’m really happy to have made the time. It was a unique experience I would not have wanted to miss out on.

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Today’s Stats

Distance: 12 miles (19.3K)

Elevation gain: 1,019ft (310m)

Duration: 4:16m

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Food and Accommodation

Hotel Altamira. I have mixed emotions about this hotel. The building dates back to the 16th century and the common areas are beautifully restored. The people in charge were also quite nice. I’m a sucker for these things. The rooms however left a lot to be desired, as did the breakfast. I did switch at the last minute from the Parador which was twice the cost. In retrospect, I should have stayed at the Parador.

La Viga. This was without a doubt one of the worst meals I had on the Camino del Norte. But I have no one to blame but myself. Santillana Del Mar is a VERY touristy town. I had done my research and knew exactly where I wanted to go, but never thought of making a reservation. In the end I just rushed to find a place before running off to my cavern tour. You live and you learn.