Camino a Santiago Day 22: Villavante to Astorga

Distance: 13.35mi (21.5km)

Elevation: 705ft (215m)

Duration: 5h 05m

Calories: 979

Steps: 37,594

I got serenaded today!! And got a really big hug from my hostess as I departed her wonderful country home….and then, as if some invisible line was crossed, the road turned upward and I began walking into a forest. The Meseta is finally over!!! WOHOOO!!! I’m not sure I could have taken another day of that monotony.

This was a good day. It was also the first day since my journey began I legitimately got really crabby for a while there.

I left Molino Galochas around 7:15am. The promise of another 95 degree day making me leave Mercedes and Maximo’s lovely home earlier than I would have liked. They are born to be hospitaleros. They’re just so good at making you feel welcome. Before I left Mercedes was showing me a scarf with the image of the Virgin of Guadalupe that her last Mexican guest left her with, and decades old board games she still keeps. It was a truly memorable stay and probably explained part of the reason I got grumpy when on Arrival in Astorga at my totally adequate but generic hotel, I was told I could not check in till 2pm.

Before all that happened however I did enjoy the day. As the scenery changed we walked through a beautiful town called Hospital de Orbigo. It’s bridge is it’s most salient feature. And while it was originally built by the Romans, it was rebuilt around the XII Century to help Pilgrims on their way to Santiago.

Upon crossing the town however I came to a split which left me a bit confused. One split had a happy face on it. The other one a sad face. Sad face split is the original route and i assumed went alongside the road. I’m usually more than happy to take scenic routes unless they’re going to add a bunch of distance to the day. Unable to figure it out, I just left it to chance and went the happy face route. It was about a mile longer in the end, but definitely worth it.

Shortly after I ran into two Australian women who had been at the same cottage I was the night before so we kept each other company for a while, encountering probably the best Donativo—a donation only rest stop—along the Way. It’s known as David’s place. A former pilgrim himself, this is his life now. Setting up a full spread with everything you can imagine to tend to pilgrims’ needs in a fun, comfortable setting. You put in whatever you feel is fair.

It was not long after I met Jose, the Hallelujah Gipsy of Astorga or something like that. Sitting with a guitar on a park bench as the descent into Astorga began José asked me for a Euro. In exchange he serenaded me with a totally made up song about an American walking to Santiago. It was hilarious.

Once in Astorga I found the city to be a bit of a mixed bag. This is one of those places I’d been looking forward to since the beginning of the trip. I found myself a bit underwhelmed. The Gaudí Palace and the history surrounding it, and the town, is very interesting. An old Roman town, this was also one of Christianity’s first settlements in the Iberian peninsula, creating some tensions and conflict at the time. It’s also where two Camino routes come together and an important crossroads for trade throughout the centuries, with a unique culture within a culture. Unfortunately, it also feels like a tourist trap. With non stop shops pushing their local products.

In any case, once I did manage to check in and find a restaurant to sit at, my earlier crabiness evaporated as I enjoyed, not just wonderful, friendly service from the owner’s dad, but also the best chickpeas on Planet Earth. And yes, I said chickpeas. Not sure how to describe them because they’re like nothing you’ve ever had or likely ever will unless you come here. All I can say is they melt in your mouth and are ridiculously amazing. So maybe Astorga is worth a visit just for that.

Accommodation: Hotel Spa Port Blue As I mentioned above, I was completely underwhelmed. It’s a random, generic hotel. There’s nothing really wrong with it. It just lacks personality. Double room, including breakfast €68.

Lunch: Restaurante Las Termas. While they are known for their Cocido Maragato, which is the traditional dish in Astorga and essentially consists of eight types of meat, followed by their life-changing chick peas, I had no desire to eat a heavy meal in such hot weather. I stuck to this amazing chick pea salad with cod and their grilled wild mushrooms. There was dessert and wine as well of course! €36