Camino a Santiago Day 2: Roncesvalles to Zubiri

Distance: 21.75km (13.5 miles)
Ascent – 443m (1,450 ft)
Descent – 871m (2,850 ft)
Steps: 30,980
Calories burned: 1,602

What a lovely day. After yesterday’s very long, and strenuous day I decided to sleep in and let the folks chasing beds—those without advance reservations—go ahead so I could walk a more quiet path. It was the right choice. Frankly I was a bit afraid I’d be super sore, and also wanted the added recovery time. But there was really nothing to fear. I felt really good today. So that was a definite positive.

On my way out I took some added time to walk around Roncesvalles which I did not do yesterday. Mind you the place is tiny. It’s pretty much a medieval religious enclave that started out as a hospital for pilgrims back in the 12th century. Today only those who care for the grounds live here.

Once I was done with my quick spin of the area, I got on the path, with my first goal to take a photo at a pilgrim-famous street sign that gives the distance (by car) to Santiago de Compostela. Seven hundred and ninety kilometers. Apparently it’s longer to drive than to walk from here! LOL.

It was at the sign, I stopped a passing pilgrim to ask him if he would take a photo. I took one for him and we quickly decided to walk together. Don’t ask me his name. For the life of me I can’t pronounce it. He’s a Lebanese dude, with a Russian mom, and a German ex-wife who has lived in the U.S and Germany, and apparently is a PhD in astrophysics or something.

One of the curious parts about the Camino is that people tell you their entire lives within like five minutes of meeting. We spent the next five hours chatting about anything and everything, then said our goodbyes at the entrance to Zubiri which was my destination town for the day. He is among the bed chasers, and I do know my town is booked, so I have a feeling he may have had to walk on.

As for the scenery today, it was just so different from yesterday. We’re still in the mountains, but there was a lot less up, and a lot more down as we descended from Roncesvalles. We walked through what are said to be witch-infested woods, past sites of great mythical battles between Charlemagne and the Basque, and just thoroughly picturesque villages and forests. Other than a couple of short steep climbs and a pretty treacherous, rocky descent the last couple of miles into town, it was pretty mellow. And of course, like yesterday, I made a kitty cat friend and added a dog to my list this time too!

A MOVING VILLAGE

Once in Zubiri I went to my hotel and engaged in what I feel will become a routine hour of self-care, including shower, stretch and leg raise; then walked over to the river, and soaked my feet in the ice-cold water. At this point it was time for dinner. And this is when I realized what they say about the Camino being a moving village is absolutely true. Because after a couple of days you start to run into the same folks everywhere. Today it was an American couple, from New Mexico—Bill and Eloise—who I met the first day in Saint Jean Pied de Port. We chatted for a few minutes as we all contemplated where to eat. Then it was a couple of Italian dudes I also met the first day while in line at the Pilgrim office. We waved at each other from afar and went on our way. Wouldn’t you know it, a few minutes later, once I had seated myself at a bar and ordered some food, one of the Italians, Cesar, walked in and promptly joined me for dinner. Never mind that I don’t speak Italian and he doesn’t speak Spanish. We had a thoroughly enjoyable dinner, the food was good, and the bar owner was a hoot. All this by 8pm.

This is what days on the Camino are like. You walk, walk, walk, shower, eat and then it’s early to bed to do it all over again the next day. But hey, it’s almost 10pm and I’m still awake, so not bad! 🙂

Accommodation: Casa Rural Txantxorena. (The “tx” in Basque have the same sound as the “ch.”) I could move in here. This is an absolutely lovely B&B. The owner has put a lot of pride into this place and it shows. The building is stunning. The interior is cozy and charming and just perfect with a downstairs living area that includes a large open-plan kitchen and dining area. To be honest, I’m a bit surprised at this place. Zubiri, once past the initial wow factor of the bridge at the entrance of town has quite literally nothing.

Dinner: Bar Valentin. Tiny bar, good food and a hilarious owner. When I was there the place was packed and had a fun, energetic vibe. What’s not to like? Menu del día was about €15.