Camino a Santiago Day 14: Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz

Distance: 20.3km (12.63mi)

Elevation gain: 191m (625ft)

Duration: 5hr 8m

Steps: 34,271

Calories: 1,309

What an idyllic day. From the poppy fields, to the ruins of a XIV century monastery, to the picture perfect approach into Castrojeriz.

Today started in a slightly different way to days past. Because the finishing town for the stage was a village so small that there was barely a couple of restaurants and albergues, staying here was never really an option for someone looking for a private room. I booked a place that was about a mile and a half off of the Camino route. I know this doesn’t sound like a big deal, but trust me, the last thing you want is to be adding unnecessary mileage to your days. Luckily, my guesthouse had pickup and drop off service so after breakfast, I was given a quick ride into town and set off.

Almost immediately I was greeted with the most beautiful poppy fields. Throughout Spain there are poppies everywhere. Usually they pop up in between fields of wheat or alongside the road. This was the first time that they were truly entire fields of red along the mountain. Gorgeous.

The day went by easily. We are now in a part of the country where the number of villages we pass through are getting to be fewer and far between. It’s certainly more important to eat before leaving or carry enough supplies to carry you through for a bit. I generally make a point to eat before leaving or have my place pack me a picnic lunch to take with me, so all I need to worry about is water. If you haven’t noticed already I’m big on big breakfasts. Fuel is energy.

Today, about 7 miles in, we came to the Village of Hontanas. Truth be told all I needed was a bathroom break but the view from the café at the entrance to town was so perfect I had to stop, order a cafe cortado and a chocolate croissant. Yum.

Being a short day and absolutely picture perfect weather, I wasn’t in a rush, so I took my time to enjoy the surroundings whenever I felt I wanted to stop. When I arrived at the ruins of the Convent of San Anton, another such stop ensued. It was so unexpected, so beautiful. It’s crazy to think there is actually an albergue here than can house a handful of pilgrims right on site. Mind you a volunteer at a local church later told me they have no electricity or gas, but hey, how often can you say you spent the night on the grounds of a XIV century monastery in ruins?

Before I knew it I was approaching Castrojeriz. I was surprised by the sheer size of the town, which from far away gave the impression of a place that might have lots to do…Never mind that. While very long, and with a beautiful church and castle nestled atop a mountain, as most other places, nearly the entire town was deserted. It was just as well. My guesthouse was lovely (I’m also told the original owner’s name was Gallardo), and offered very good food, so after a shower to freshen up, and a snack on the main square, Sarah and I grabbed dinner at my place, and I was off to an early bedtime.

I should mention I write my diaries and edit the vlog in real time. Ninety percent of the time I do this in bed, so I can get my rest and be productive all at once!!

Accommodation: A Cien Leguas. Absolutely loved this place. It oozes charm, and the owners are fantastic. I would not hesitate to return. Again, as with most places on the meseta, there is no aircon. But there is a lovely patio with a beautiful view to relax on. Double room, single use: €40/night

Dinner: A Cien Leguas. The food was, as the rest of the place, excellent. Menu del dia: €14