Camino a Santiago Day 31: Arzua to O’Pedrouzo

Distance: 21.6k (13.4 mi)

Elevation gain: 337m (1,104ft)

Duration: 4h 7m

Steps: 30,824

Calories: 1,183

I’m now sitting 19K from Santiago. My Camino story is starting to come full circle.

It’s mind-boggling to think about. How did this even happen? It was five weeks ago I was boarding a train in Bayonne, France heading to St. Jean Pied-de-Port for the start of my journey.

That was day zero. And on that day I met Linda, a woman from England who I connected with thanks to a Camino Facebook group. I last saw Linda in Logroño four weeks ago over Pinxtos. Until today, when having finished her own journey, not just to Santiago, but to Finisterre, she got on a bus and met me where I’m at now so we could catch up. Two glasses of wine later, I walked her to the bus stop so she could go back to Santiago.

I am grateful for Linda. And for Nelli, who created the What’s App group that brought us together, and who I will see again tomorrow in Santiago. A tapas crawl in Leon was our last encounter. I’m also grateful for Sara, my foodie friend who is a day behind me…and whom I hope to see again, before my own departure.

Such is the nature of Camino friendships. They happen so quickly. And they are gone just as fast. But they’re still meaningful. In a truly significant way. The Way is so intense. It is life encapsulated in a five week period, and try as we might, it’s hard to share that with our loved ones back home. How to explain the nomadic lifestyle, the sights, the sounds, the quirks, the ups, the downs, the aches and pains, the culture shock—Everything that goes into our day in and day out on the Camino?

I’ve tried my best to do that through these diaries and through the vlog. And I hope I’ve been able to convey, if only a tiny bit of my experience. It’s one I can hardly believe is almost over. To those who have followed, thank you for sharing my ride. Santiago is calling.

Accommodation: Pensión 9 de Abril. O’Pedrouzo is almost quite literally a one street town that exists for the sole purpose of being the last layover on the way to Santiago. There is nothing to see. And if you want a private room, pensiones are all you will find. Basically they are a handful of rooms set above other businesses. Mine was functional, clean and modern and the owner was quite friendly and helpful. My only “but” is that because the other two rooms on my floor shared a bathroom and their doors were quite noisy I was woken up several times during the night. A pair of earplugs would have solved the issue. Double room, single use €60.

Lunch: Restaurante Galaicos. I arrived in town very close to the time when restaurants shut down until dinner. It was also a Monday when apparently most places are closed here. Fortunately my pensión owner recommended this spot. The food was really good and so was the service.

I should also mention I totally forgot my wallet. Upon realizing that shortly after ordering I informed the waiter and asked him to hold my table while I ran back to my room. He basically said “Don’t worry. I trust you. You can come back to pay after you’re done.” Just for that this place gets a 10. Three course lunch plus something like five glasses of wine between Linda and myself: €30