Camino a Santiago Day 16: Fromista a Carrión de Los Condes

Distance: 20km (12.37mi)

Elevation gain: 84m (276ft)

Duration: 4hr 30m

Steps: 34,278

Calories: 1,250

Why do I always take the wrong route? I mean, it wasn’t technically the wrong route. In fact it was the official one. It was just the ugly one. Alongside a road, for three miles….ugh. My new Swedish friends were rubbing it in later that they got the nice shady, river view. They’re not my friends anymore. LOL.

Really though, today was quite a pleasant day. It was short. Very. I left around 7am hoping to beat the heat (yes, I sound like a broken record, but it’s a thing). A few minutes into my day I met Pedro, a Spanish man who is the epitome of a Pilgrim on the Camino a Santiago. From his motivations, to his style of traveling. He regaled me with stories of cooking for fellow pilgrims every night at the albergues, and how despite having two young girls at home, his wife packed his bag and sent him on his way, knowing just how much this means to him.

I reached the only town of note, Villalcázar de Sirga, before the end of today’s stage at about 10am. I was only an hour away from Carrion de de Los Condes and knowing my bag would not be at my hotel for a while yet, I sat down for coffee to wait for the church to open. The Iglesia Santa María la Blanca is a 12th century structure built by the Knights Templar, I had it down as one worth visiting. And it was. While I waited I ran into my Dutch friend Sarah, who had left Fromista later than I.

We walked the rest of the way together and marveled at how much we liked Carrion de los Condes. It is quite big by Camino standards, with lots to see, lots of cute little shops and lots of life. And yet, I only spent about an hour and a half there. Located at the far end of town, my hotel for tonight is a converted monastery, built between the 12th and 15th centuries. Back in the day it was apparently the place to be, as the monks here would allow pilgrims their fill of bread and wine!!

As soon as I arrived I knew I would not be leaving again. In some ways, like the Parador a few days ago in Santo Domingo de La Calzada, it reminds me a lot of the old colonial hotels in Mexico, built around former Haciendas. Thes are just a “few” centuries older. I have to say, I have truly lucked out with my accomodations so far. From the smallest hamlets to the cities, each has not just been a place to lay my head down at night, but places of true charm, with lovely hosts, willing to go that extra mile to tend to a tired pilgrim.

Accommodation: Monasterio San Zoilo. This place is just stunning. It was an absolute pleasure to stay here and my room right off the inner cloister was perfect. The entire place has been preserved in a way where you really feel like you’re in this magnificent historic building. It’s also an excellent value, and so much lower than your average Spanish Parador which is the closest comparison in terms of type of accommodation. FYI, even if you’re not staying here, the Monastery itself is open for visitors. €62/night

Lunch: Monasterio San Zoilo. This was a very disappointing meal. I have no problems with a high price point as long as it’s merited. I’m sad to say this was not. While the restaurant, like the rest of the hotel, is beautiful, the food was just OK and the service downright bad. Three course meal plus wine €74