Camino a Santiago Day 12: Atapuerca to Burgos

Distance: 19k (12mi)

Elevation Gain: 156m (511ft)

Duration: 4h 15m

Steps: 32,570

Calories: 1,185

I may never leave my balcony. Like maybe I can extend my time here for another month and just forget about the Camino. I am currently sitting on the balcony of my apartment in Burgos. Apartment you ask? Let me explain. I’m spending two nights here. And as such, I chose an

Airbnb for those nights. I figured two weeks in it would be nice to have the added privacy of not being in a hotel, guesthouse, hostel, fill in the blank. I was right. There is a lot to do here, which means I will have to leave my balcony at some point, but for now, the magnificent view I have of the Burgos Cathedral will keep me here at least until I catch up on journaling. I did make dinner plans for this evening, which is kind of sad. I bought the loveliest red wine, cheese and bellota ham, and would happily just stay here and have that for dinner. But there is always tomorrow I guess.

Anyway….today’s walk was interesting. Lol. What do I mean? Well, I kind of got lost. Kinda, sorta, after a fashion.

This was always meant to be a short day, so I could get to Burgos early enough to explore. As much as you can on a Sunday when most things are closed anyway. But after yesterday’s tour of the arqueological dig site at Atapuerca, I definitely wanted to check out the Museum of Human Evolution where all of the findings are stored, and I knew it was only open until 3pm on Sundays and closed Mondays so I was on a mission.

I got up and had breakfast at my guesthouse. A simple affair. Toast. Cheese. Ham. Juice. Coffee. This is traditional fare here in Spain and for €5 I wasn’t going to complain. It was just nice to know I could eat and go straight through to Burgos without stopping….Until…Oops.

I mean, I got lost in the Himalayas, so why not in Spain? And to be frank, I was never truly lost. Basically what happened is that I arrived at a split in the road about 4 miles in and decided that I would take the direction that was not the quote, unquote, official one. I knew it would still get me there, but a bit quicker. What I did not realize is there was another split shortly ahead. And let’s just say I took the wrong one. I mean, mind you, it was still marked as a Camino route. There was just NO ONE THERE. As in NOT A SOUL. And it was muddy.

Oh well. I had my trusty yellow arrows, and google maps, and I knew I was fine. I was just definitely going the way less traveled. Which of course also meant, the not so scenic, industrial route. Honestly, I didn’t mind much. Maybe it’s the city girl in me. Or the jaded journalist. I don’t freak out easily.

I mean, yes. Originally I planned on taking an alternate route that took me alongside a river into downtown Burgos. But best laid plans and all that. Honestly, I think if the Camino is teaching me anything it’s number one, let go of expectations, and number two, on the Camino, as in life, you can’t always avoid the ugly bits. It is what it is.

At the end of the day I got to my destination. I made it to the museum. And I’m sitting on a magnificent balcony looking at what has to be one of the most beautiful Gothic buildings in Europe with an absolutely lovely glass of Rosé next to me. Life is good. I’m happy. And I’m grateful.

Accommodation: Bella Vista Catedral Apartments. I can’t say enough about these apartments. Absolutely loved my stay here. Not only is the apartment gorgeous, it’s location and balcony directly across from the Cathedral make it a perfect stay. The owner is super helpful and very responsive. I would come back to Burgos just to stay here again. €90/night.

Dinner: La Favorita. Had a super fun night here. We only ordered pintxos and not a la carte. But the food was very good as was the wine. Considering it’s in the Michelin guide as one of the city’s top places, prices extremely reasonable. €23 for about 5 pintxos and two glasses of wine.