Camino a Santiago Day 17: Carrión de los Condes to Sahagún

Distance: 30km (20mi)

Elevation gain: 552ft

Duration: 6h 37m

Steps: 39,878

Calories: 1,730

I’m a total slacker. I was supposed to walk 24 miles today. I only walked 20. But I have an excuse. I was walking into a lightning storm and a nice Spanish man at a bar offered me a ride along with three others. Legit. I took it as a sign. And you know what? It took all of 5 minutes instead of another hour and a half to cover the last four miles. It really puts this whole thing into perspective doesn’t it?

I left Carrión de los Condes today bright and early at 5am. It was pitch black out, and I was a tad concerned. Fortunately a girl who heard me speaking about my desire to leave early on this stage when I was in Fromista a couple of days ago, came over to my table, introduced herself and told me she’d walk with me. This is how friendships are made on the Camino.

Aparna met me at my monastery/hotel, which was conveniently located on the way out of town and off we went. She had a head lamp. I had the flashlight function on my cel phone. By 6am it was light enough we no longer needed either. The first ten miles (17k) were navigated on the same stretch of road, just straight ahead, no variation. Without company it would have been extremely monotonous. With company the entire day was made a lot easier. My friend Nelli who is walking a day ahead has been really good about sending me voice memos every day telling me what to expect. Those tips proved very useful today. We knew the first town had veggie pizza at the entrance and the second town a smoothie bar at the end. These are the things that keep you motivated between often-times long stretches of road. And let me tell you, those smoothies were really good.

By the time we left the smoothie bar two became three, and I had ten miles left out of the 24. Around mile 17 however the skies turned very dark and we could see lightning in the distance. By mile 20, Aparna and Dave were done for the day and it had started to rain. We all went into a bar at the entrance of town to sit and wait it out. They tried to talk me into calling a cab to go the rest of the way rather than potentially walk into a thunderstorm. I agreed that was not something I was going to do.

By the time we finished our tintos de verano (sangria without the fruit) the storm seemed to have mostly passed and off they went to check into their albergues. Still doubtful, I walked into the bar to ask the barkeep what he thought about the storm. His opinion was that it had passed and I’d be ok walking the last four miles. No sooner had he spoken, one of the locals who was sitting at the bar tells me he’s already offered a ride to three other women sitting outside and there was room for me if I wanted one too. He had zero motivation other than just being nice. I was ready to walk but faced with the easier option, and already tired after 20 miles on the road, I jumped at the chance. Does that make me weak? Nah. It makes me smart. There was lightning in the area. Whether or not the storms appeared to have passed, walking alone in lightning is not bad ass. It´s stupid.

I made it to Sahagun an hour and a half earlier as our Good Samaritan dropped us off on the edge of town. Immediately I was a bit confused by all the barriers. They looked exactly like the ones I’d seen used in Pamplona to keep the bulls at bay. What’s going on here? Leave it to me. Not only did I rock into town on the biggest holiday weekend of the year, the all-night party was centered directly outside my balcony. I can tell you one thing though. Next time you need to buy ear plugs. Ask me for a recommendation. I slept like a baby and never heard a thing.

Accommodation: Los Balcones del Camino (unbeatable location, lovely owner, great price, rooms could use some maintenance, loose floor tiles)

Lunch: Restaurante Luis Not sure why reviews in general aren’t that good. I had a lovely meal with very high quality ingredients, and service during what is likely their busiest weekend of the year. I did later find out though a lot of the staff were brought in from Leon specifically for the weekend, which might have contributed to quality of service. Menu del Dia €36