Above the tree line…and into thin air

It’s early Thursday morning in Dingboche. We arrived yesterday, after one of our longest hikes to date: 6.5 miles [10.5km]  covered in under four hours. Our snails pace dictated this time, not so much by the terrain, which for once, was not as severe, but by the decreasing amount of oxygen available for us to breathe in. 

When we took off from Deboche we were at an elevation of just over 12,500 feet [3,800 meters]. When we arrived at our destination we had jumped to over 14,400 feet [4410 meters]. It is why we have to spend two nights in Dingboche. After every 3,300 feet [1,000 meters] climbed an acclimatization day is required to make sure none of us get sick. We’re told altitude sickness symptoms usually appear within 24 hours of arrival. Our guides and doctors are now monitoring us  constantly. Making it clear we must drink at least a gallon [4 liters] of water a day. 

The hike itself was simply stunning, with near constant views of the snow capped giants that surround us: Ama Dablam, Lhotse and Mt. Everest.  Our scenery is also now dramatically different. We are above the tree line. The beautiful rhododendrons which accompanied us earlier have disappeared, leaving only small shrubs in their place. The already narrow trail, seems to have gotten narrower in spots, or maybe it’s just that the steep drops are now more in evidence, without anything to block their view. 

This is a race course?

Once again I’m reminded this is the Everest Marathon course in reverse. I’d be lying if I didn’t confess to being somewhat apprehensive. We will need to have our wits about us around the clock during this one. There is no checking out and just letting yourself go in a race like this. I also remind myself, I won’t be carrying a 15 pounds on my back on race day. I’ll be wearing trail running shoes and not boots. I’ll be going mostly down, with ever more oxygen in the air, not less. The mind games have begun.