• Ecuador: Galapagos & the Amazon

    Sierra Negra Volcano, Isabela Island, Galapagos.

    The National Geographic special continues. Geological edition.  This was a day dominated by a 10 mile (16km) hike to Isabela Island’s Sierra Negra volcano. It probably comes as no surprise to say that the Galapagos archipelago was formed mostly as a result of volcanic activity, but what makes Isabela unique is that unlike every other island here, which only have one volcano each, Isabela has six. Three of them are still active. Sierra Negra last erupted in 2018.  It is the 2005 eruption however that nearly eradicated the giant tortoises from the island, but more specifically from the area around Sierra Negra. And while It’s estimated that some 800 of…

  • Ecuador: Galapagos & the Amazon

    Galápagos Islands: Isabela

    I’m starting to feel like I live in the middle of a National Geographic special. Today began of with a snorkeling excursion to a bay where we were told we’d be able to swim with the marine iguanas that inhabit Isabela island. By the time the snorkel was over, not only had we hung out with the swimming iguanas, but also swum with turtles, a penguin, a sea lion and one of the largest sting rays I’ve ever seen. Never mind the dozens of star fish all over the sea floor.  Ah, but we’re not done says our guide as we get back into the boat. We are now going…

  • Ecuador: Galapagos & the Amazon

    Galápagos Islands: Floreana, a three-hour tour

    I’m so overwhelmed I don’t know where to start. I began my day at what in just 48 hours has to have become one of my favorite spots on Earth: Mann beach in San Cristóbal Island. Sunrise in the company of no one other than two of my groupmates and dozens of sea lions. The adults slumbering. Their boisterous pups splashing around in the water, nagging their mommas for attention. By 7:45am however we were saying goodbye to San Cristóbal, as we embarked on a three-hour tour. Thankfully there was no shipwreck on a deserted island, but within the space of 60 miles we went from being surrounded by sea…

  • Ecuador: Galapagos & the Amazon

    Galápagos Islands: San Cristóbal

    I swam with sea lions today!! And sea turtles!! And saw blue-footed boobies!! It’s the end of day two in Galápagos Islands. It’s 9:30pm and I’m laying in bed as I write this. Completely exhausted, but happy. I also may have found my new favorite place ever in Mann Beach, aka baby sea lion heaven. Galapagos has been on my bucket list since forever. Fifteen years if I really have to pinpoint it. It was when I first got my scuba certification, and learned of the amazing marine wildlife that exists on these remote islands, 600km (370mi) off the coast of Ecuador. The funny part is I’m not going to…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Day 32: O’Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela

    Distance: 12.24 mi Elevation gain: 1,139ft Duration: 4h 40m Steps: 35,316 Calories: 1,297 It’s been 48 hours since I arrived in Santiago. I’m now sitting on flight number 3 of 3 to get me home: Munich to Chicago.  It’s been a whirlwind. A visit to the Pilgrim’s office to get my Compostela, post-Camino celebrations with friends, not one but two different tours of the Cathedral, a spa day, and a Pilgrim mass I had no plans to go to, but ended up at after my cousin Gaby flew into Santiago from Madrid to spend a day with me. And of course, one last day in Madrid, which meant two things:…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Day 31: Arzua to O’Pedrouzo

    Distance: 21.6k (13.4 mi) Elevation gain: 337m (1,104ft) Duration: 4h 7m Steps: 30,824 Calories: 1,183 I’m now sitting 19K from Santiago. My Camino story is starting to come full circle. It’s mind-boggling to think about. How did this even happen? It was five weeks ago I was boarding a train in Bayonne, France heading to St. Jean Pied-de-Port for the start of my journey. That was day zero. And on that day I met Linda, a woman from England who I connected with thanks to a Camino Facebook group. I last saw Linda in Logroño four weeks ago over Pinxtos. Until today, when having finished her own journey, not just…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Day 30: Sambreixo to Arzua

    Distance: 23k (14.17mi)  Elevation Gain: 460m (1,510ft) Duration: 5h 39m Steps: 31,612 Calories: 1,544 Country cottages are the best. But so are perfectly curated boutique hotels with monkeys on the wallpaper. Such is the nature of accomodations on the Camino. Over the last five weeks I’ve had a little bit of everything. Five star Paradores, converted monasteries, simple B&B’s with no more than a handful of rooms.  I’m going to let you in on a little secret. As much as I love the luxury and creature comforts of the five stars, it is those small, family-run inns that have stolen my heart. The place I left today is one of…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Day 29: Portomarín to Palas de Rei

    Distance: 25.4K (15.84mi) Elevation gain: 585m (1,919ft)  Duration: 6h 18m Steps: 30,742 Calories: 1,770 Can you imagine standing in the middle of ruins that date back to 400BC…With only one other person for company? That was, but a part of yet another extraordinary day on the Camino a Santiago, that included getting a Templar stamp from a blind man and a day out for vintage car owners. On my 29th day. I sit here,  writing in the backyard of Casa Blanco, my country home for the night. I have a glass of red for company, and there are cows from a nearby shed mooing in the background. It is quite idyllic.…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Day 28: Sarria to Portomarín

    Distance: 23.1k (14.41mi)  Elevation gain: 459m (1,505ft) Duration: 4h 56m Steps: 29, 337 Calories: 1,543 I am now less than 100K from Santiago. I also got my first blister. Not sure what’s the bigger headline here. There goes my superhuman feet theory. I clearly got cocky, because despite having a ton of blister pads with me, I had already taken them out of my daypack, confident I wouldn’t need them. Thank goodness for a lovely Irish family that came to my rescue as I sat, examining my feet by the side of the road.  Blister aside it was quite a nice walk….despite suddenly having about 10x more people on the…

  • Camino a Santiago

    Camino a Santiago Day 27: O’Cebreiro to Sarria (Samos)

    Distance: 31.75k (19.72mi) Elevation gain: 504m (1,653ft) Duration: 7h 48m Steps: 39,661 Calories: 2,008 Takeout pizza and a bottle of wine. That’s my definition of heaven right now. Especially after so long on the road. And especially when my room has a massive balcony with a lovely view, and the city I’m in is way too busy for my current level of exhaustion and zen. BTW, I just realized that one month ago today I set out on my first day of the Camino. Also, as of right now I only have five walking days left. How did that happen? And how have I not fallen apart yet?  Today was…