Camino a Santiago
The Camino a Santiago or Way of St. James is an ancient Christian pilgrimage trail. Originating during medieval times, the Way is composed of a series of routes that traverse Spain, all ending in the same place: Satiago de Compostela. It is there, Catholics believe the remains of St. James are housed. At 800 km (500 miles) in length the French Way is the most popular of these routes, attracting over 400,000 pilgrims a year.
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Camino a Santiago Day 14: Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz
Distance: 20.3km (12.63mi) Elevation gain: 191m (625ft) Duration: 5hr 8m Steps: 34,271 Calories: 1,309 What an idyllic day. From the poppy fields, to the ruins of a XIV century monastery, to the picture perfect approach into Castrojeriz. Today started in a slightly different way to days past. Because the finishing town for the stage was a village so small that there was barely a couple of restaurants and albergues, staying here was never really an option for someone looking for a private room. I booked a place that was about a mile and a half off of the Camino route. I know this doesn’t sound like a big deal, but…
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Camino a Santiago Day 13: Burgos to Hornillos del Camino
Distance: 21km (13.13mi) Elevation gain: 128m (420ft) Duration: 5hr 5m Steps: 34,484 Calories: 1,412 “If you want to find an answer, forget the question and trust the Camino” -Anonymous. I was blessed by a nun and met a Pilgrim who’s been on the Camino for eight years. I mean, back home we’d call him a bum, but somehow not here. I left Burgos today quite late. It was nine thirty when i set off. Having stayed in an apartment for the last couple of days, I just wanted to take advantage of the opportunity to chill, make myself a proper breakfast (the Spaniards are not big on breakfast like we…
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Camino a Santiago: Rest day in Burgos
Coffee on my balcony. Followed by wine and cheese on my balcony. Followed by….you get the picture. On day two of my love affair with Burgos, and more specifically with my Burgos Airbnb I definitely took advantage. Don’t get me wrong. I did explore the city, which is beautiful. I just spent quite a bit of time doing what you’re supposed to do on a rest day: resting. I got up late. Having a kitchen to cook in, I made myself scrambled eggs with chorizo. Added some toast, yogurt, juice and of course, coffee. Add in my lovely view and voilá. I was in rest day Heaven. Once I did…
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Camino a Santiago Day 12: Atapuerca to Burgos
Distance: 19k (12mi) Elevation Gain: 156m (511ft) Duration: 4h 15m Steps: 32,570 Calories: 1,185 I may never leave my balcony. Like maybe I can extend my time here for another month and just forget about the Camino. I am currently sitting on the balcony of my apartment in Burgos. Apartment you ask? Let me explain. I’m spending two nights here. And as such, I chose an Airbnb for those nights. I figured two weeks in it would be nice to have the added privacy of not being in a hotel, guesthouse, hostel, fill in the blank. I was right. There is a lot to do here, which means I will…
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Camino a Santiago Day 11: Belorado to Atapuerca
Distance: 30km (19 mi) Elevation Gain: (1,630 ft) Duration: 7h 30m Steps: 37,995 Calories: 2,015 I took a bus today. Yes. A bus. But I didn’t cheat. Let me explain. This was a heck of a long day. There was a mountain crossing, a mass grave for political prisoners, a religious procession celebrating a village’s Saint, a butterfly photography session, and an archeological dig site containing not just the remains of five hominid species, but the oldest human remains ever found in Europe… That’s not even going into all the random encounters and conversations along the Way. Today had so much going on it was definitely enough to make your…
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Camino a Santiago Day 10: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado
Distance: 22.5km (14.14mi) Elevation gain: 363m (1,190ft) Duration: 5hrs Steps: 31,474 Calories: 1,384 There is a private home built into the side of a mountain!! And a medieval fair of sorts. Oh and really cool mural art. That in a nutshell is Belorado (pop 1,800). There is also the front part of a something that looks like an old Volkswagen Combi sticking out of a stone wall in the back terrace of my hotel. Never mind the XVI century church in the background with a dozen or so stork’s nests perched on top. It’s all rather bizarre. But it works. Today’s 14 mile (22.5k) walk from Santo Domingo de la…
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Camino a Santiago Day 9: Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada
Where the chicken sang after it was roasted. I kid you not. That’s what Santo Domingo de La Calzada I’m in now is famous for. It’s an awesome story. Legend says that a German pilgrim teenager was passing through with his parents when he was accused of theft by a young girl who’s interest he did not respond to. As was customary at the time he was hanged. Except, that when his parents went to see their son’s body they were surprised to find that he was alive, telling them it was the founder of the town, Santo Domingo who spared his life. They immediately went to see the Mayor…
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Camino a Santiago Day 8: Logroño to Nájera
Distance: 30km (18.76 mi) Elevation gained: 407m (1336ft) Duration: 7h 10m Steps: 40,468 Calories: 1,936 Temperature: 93F (34C) Today was existential philosophy day on the Camino. And a scorcher. It may have been the existential part that kept me from totally losing it. Like seriously. It seems everywhere I turned there was a saying, a poem, a sign, something to remind us to follow our hearts; to remember that everything we need is already at home; to love life. I wonder if this is a hard stage for everyone and the constant motivational theme is there to get folks through it. I’m not going to lie. Mentally this was the…
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Camino a Santiago: Rest day in Logroño
My second rest day in a week. I’m glad I took it, but I’m not sure I’d repeat it. When originally planning out my rest days along the Camino, the idea, was not just to rest, per se, but also to be able to explore in some of the bigger towns along the Way. That is why I stopped in Pamplona only three days in. But while I loved Pamplona, Logroño left me underwhelmed. I also think it had to do more with my expectations than anything else. The entry into the city, crossing over the bridge, is to be fair, lovely. And the street art here is fantastic. But…
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Camino a Santiago Day 7: Los Arcos to Logroño
Distance: 29.1km (18.1 mi) Elevation Gained: 457m (1,498ft) Duration: 8hr Steps: 42,481 Calories: 1,924 Twenty-nine kilometers done and dusted. Eighteen miles. Metric or imperial, it’s still one heck of a distance, and the longest I’ve done thus far along the Camino. I left early today. Around 6:45am. It started getting quite hot a few days ago and this is the only way to beat the heat—at least for the first part of the day. So much for sleeping in. Ah well. This isn’t a walk in the park I guess. It was actually quite nice in the early going. There is something very serene about walking that early. And it…
