TMB Day 4: Chapieux to Courmayeur

• Distance: 8.53 miles (13.72km)

• Ascent: 2,534 feet (772m)

• Descent: 2,704 feet (824m)

• Highest elevation: 8,234 feet (2,509m)

Leaving France behind, crossing the border into Italy and peach pie. This is pretty much all I remember. OK. Not quite. I’m writing this five days later, which makes it easier to block out the tough bits, and remember just the good parts, which usually is how it happens. 

In reality this was one of our easier days. The beginning and end felt like we were cheating as there were bus rides involved. The first was necessitated by a change in the refuge normally used by our travel operator (which as a result of Covid would not take groups out of fear we would cancel). The second was pre-planned. Heading into Courmayeur for our one and only rest day, hiking all the way into town is not possible since the only way in involves walking on a busy shoulder, and I guess getting one of us hit by a car would be bad for business. 🙈

Anyway, my recollection of this day pretty much goes like this: basic breakfast at our refuge; bus to Ville de Glaciers where we actually began our hike; climb from hell; a glorious border crossing from France into Italy with some of the more spectacular vistas we’ve had on this trek (and that’s saying something); and an absolutely stunning hike from the border to our second bus stop of the day. Oh, and peach pie. Served up by an Argentinian guy working as a barista at Rifugio Elisabetta because his usual guiding gig is on a Covid-enforced hiatus. 

I do have to say that was one stunning Rifugio Writing this in retrospect, Elisabetta probably has one of the top two settings of all the mountain refuges we’ve stopped at along the TMB route. Interestingly, the approach is marked by the ruins of old WWII barracks. On the French side of the border there is a wartime memorial that is very much marked and celebrated. On the Italian side, not so much. It all makes sense when you think about it. 

In any case, once the walking bits were done for the day we were finally in Courmayeur. For those of you who haven’t heard of it, Courmayeur is basically the chilled out Italian little cousin to the much better known ski town of Chamonix directly across Mont Blanc in France. Except here, it’s called Monte Bianco. The two are connected by a tunnel. And while they are both ski towns, their vibes are completely different. And I’m not sure it’s just an Italy vs France thing. Courmayeur is smaller, but is also feels more upscale and sophisticated. 

In any case, it’s home for two nights and not only is the owner of our hotel simply charming and wonderful [she’s totally fascinated by the fact that I have an American passport, a Spanish last name and Italian family LOL], for once it’s a relief to spend more than a single night in one place.