• Iceland: The Laugavegur Trail

    Day 6: Back to Reykjavik

    All good things must come to end. Lest we forget to appreciate them. Our last morning in Thórsmörk began—finally—with a leisurely morning coffee and the bacon and eggs we were all craving from the day before. We had to check out of our room by 10am though so we all made sure to have our things packed and outside the huts before breakfast. Once done it was time for one last short hike. More of a walk really. But what a walk. Up a steep hill it was for one last magnificent view of the surrounding area, a quick jaunt to a super cool spot called the singing cave, and,…

  • Iceland: The Laugavegur Trail

    Day 5: An easy day….Just please don’t fall off the cliff.

    Our guide went MIA today. Well kinda sorta. This morning we were all moving slow. After yesterday evening’s festivities no one was in a rush to get up. Especially since we are spending another night here and didn’t have to go through our usual packing routine. At some point when we finally all got our acts together it became apparent our guide was nowhere to be found. The other group was happily cooking bacon and eggs while we were still trying to sort out coffee.  As it turns out Hákon has some tummy troubles. The really bad kind. When he finally managed to make an appearance this morning all he…

  • Iceland: The Laugavegur Trail

    Day 4: One trail ends…another begins

    I’m Writing this a day late. Mostly beause I was having too much fun yesterday. Which is a good thing.  The Laugavegur Trail is officially complete. The next two days will be for day hikes in the area of Thorsmork where we are now.  We hiked about ten miles in mostly rolling terrain. While there was, like yesterday, some walking through black sand plains, we also walked through our first Icelandic forest. Yes! There are forests in Iceland. Though definitely not what we think of.  You see, while hundreds of years ago Iceland was about 40% tree covered most of those trees have disappeared. There is, very little vegetation here.…

  • Iceland: The Laugavegur Trail

    Day 3: Ice cold river crossings and a whole lotta black sand

    I’ve never slept in a bunk bed in my life. Tonight that’s going to change. I’m lying on the top of a six mattress bunk. I kid you not. Thankfully two are free so there is room to stretch out. Such luxury. Especially after the two ice-cold river crossings we had to do today. So what’s the big deal with these river crossings I keep harping on? Well they’re kind of fun. But they also take a heck of a lot more time than they should. Why? Well because you can’t just walk through in your regular footwear or you’d end up hiking in wet boots and socks. Not good. So…

  • Iceland: The Laugavegur Trail

    Day 2: The Land of Fire and Ice

    I’m writing this a day late, as I lie inside my sleeping bag—my roommates beginning to stir inside our little mountain hut. There are clothes hanging everywhere, including from an improvised clothes line devised last night in an effort to get our soaked clothes to dry. Our first official day on the Laugavegur trail was nothing short of epic. At fifteen miles long it is billed as the longest and hardest day of the trek, including well over 3,000 feet of elevation gain.  The first half was stunning, breathtaking, otherworldly, all those adjectives commonly ascribed to Iceland, a country who’s landscape changes in the blink of an eye. As does…

  • Iceland: The Laugavegur Trail

    Day 1: Hiking the Laugavegur Trail and then some…

    I’m sitting at a picnic table with my toothbrush sitting next to me, looking at one of the most stunning views Mother Nature could have devised. Located at the very start of the 55-kilometer Laugavegur trail in Iceland, the huts we are staying at are quite basic. There is no electricity. Just solar power. Bathrooms and showers are in a separate building. Our rooms are mixed dorms for about 16 people. To say we are quite cozy is an understatement. But I’ve always said, if there is something I really really want to do, I will do what needs to be done to go there. I’ve not always been that…

  • Ecuador: Galapagos & the Amazon

    Ecuador: Five days in the Amazon Jungle

    I learned how to make mosquito repellent out of live termites today. It’s simple. First, find a termite nest. Then scrape a tiny bit off the top, letting thousands of said termites out in a panic to repair the damage. Put your hand over the nest allowing them to crawl over you; rub your hands together; and finally, spread the dead termite juice all over your face and other exposed areas. It even smells good. I swear. No. I did not put this into practice myself. I was too chicken. But I did watch my guide and jungle walk companion Nikola do it. I do question however, what the first…

  • Ecuador: Galapagos & the Amazon

    Journey into the Ecuadorian Amazon

    We went looking for anacondas today. Mercifully we failed. I don’t think I’m ready for that just yet. Just wondering if there is a tarantula hiding in the rafters of my cabin will likely keep me up all night as it is. What a place. It feels surreal to be here, in the Ecuadorian Amazon. And to think that yesterday morning I was on Santa Cruz Island in the Galapagos watching the sunrise in the company of sea lions, marine iguanas and blue-footed boobies.  After a long day of travel to Quito yesterday, followed by an overnight stay, this morning it was back to the airport for a 40 minute…

  • Ecuador: Galapagos & the Amazon

    Galápagos Islands: The Giant Tortoises of Santa Cruz

    Wow. Our last day on Galápagos Islands was one I will never forget. After a jam-packed week, I chose to take the morning off to do some souvenir shopping and just generally have some time to myself. A few thoroughly enjoyable hours later I was back at my hotel meeting up with the group to embark on our last excursion. Talk about saving the best for last. A 45 minute bus ride, and several giant tortoise sightings later—even some just randomly crossing the road— we were on the highlands of Santa Cruz ready to visit Rancho El Manzanillo, a giant tortoise reserve where it’s estimated some 3,300 of these gentle…

  • Ecuador: Galapagos & the Amazon

    Galápagos Islands: Santa Cruz, Part 1

    Goodbye Isabela. Hello Santa Cruz. Today we left the Galapagos’ biggest island en route to its fourth and final inhabited one. But not before Isabela put on one more show for us, begging the question do you really want to leave? After a quick, early morning breakfast our group was driven over to the pier to have our bags inspected and loaded onto the water taxi. We then walked across the street to find eight kayaks lined up alongside the beach.  Kayaking on Isabela Island It’s true what the say about the early bird getting the worm. Or in this case, the fish. Within minutes of paddling we were surrounded…